Page 0054

52 � squaremeal.co.uk

THE BUNYADI

16 Harper Road, SE1 6AD

No telephone £££

With a 40,000-strong

waiting list, �e Bunyadi,

aka 'that naked restaurant',

is already a roaring success.

�is gloomily lit pop-up is

hidden within a seemingly

boarded-up pub. Guests

change into bathrobes,

which can be removed once

seated. Earthy, well-meaning dishes on the five-course menu

include sun-dried tomato-stuffed raw courgette flowers with

cauliflower couscous. Flavours seem meek, though, so the

waiting list must be packed with naturists - or thrill-seekers.

THE HARCOURT

32 Harcourt Street, W1H

4HX; 020 3771 8660 ££

�anks to its Finnish chef,

Swedish mixologist, and

a location near the Swedish

Embassy, this gastropub has

subtle Nordic leanings. �e

refit of the Grade II-listed

Georgian pile is ravishing,

including a bar-cum-dining

room separated into cosy

nooks. Sadly, the food didn't impress: duck egg with smoked

mayonnaise and straw potatoes lacked strident flavours; and

a pavé of slow-cooked lamb with polenta was mono-textured

and salty. Slow, inexperienced service didn't help matters.

KOJAWAN

23rd Floor, 225 Edgware

Road, W2 1JU

020 8088 0111 ££££

A quirky Korean, Japanese

and Taiwanese project

(hence the name), Kojawan

combines manga sci-fi decor,

sky-high views (from the

Hilton's 23rd floor) and even

loftier prices. Begin at the bar

with snacks including cricket

bombs (deep-fried balls stuffed with insects) and sweet cocktails,

before selecting raw, charcoal-baked or 'fire stove' dishes. Results

can be mixed, but we love the vibrantly flavoured beef cheek with

chilli and ginger, and the white chocolate-stuffed pancake.

THE

LIGHTERMAN

3 Granary Square, N1C

4BH; 020 3846 3400 ££

Occupying an impressive,

three-storey modernist

edifice, this new pub-cumdining

room is certainly

handsome. Ascend from the

buzzy street-level bar to find

a more formal restaurant

where gastropub staples (fish

& chips, lamb shank) are outshone by meat and seafood from the

wood-fired grill. Roast cod with celeriac purée was flavoursome

and light, and the on-trend drinks list is a real crowd-pleaser,

but overcooking isn't unknown and local competition is fierce.

BANH BANH

46 Peckham Rye, SE15

4JR; 020 7207 2935 ££

�e Tardis-like dining room

of this stylish Vietnamese

canteen has a counter up

front, with a more makedo-and-mend

affair behind.

�e menu offers 'smallish',

'biggish' and 'classic' dishes.

Our favourite is the punchy,

juicy, lemongrass-marinated

beef patties cooked in betel leaves, but Bành Bành can also do

subtlety: a delicately dressed bun noodle salad topped with pork

sausages and tofu-stuffed spring rolls, for instance. Eager staff

and eastern-tinged cocktails complete the happy picture.

GOTTO

27 East Bay Lane,

Here East, E15 2GW

020 3424 5035 ££

�is casual Italian trattoria

from the team behind Soho's

Mele e Pere is located in the

Here East development in

Stratford's Olympic Park. It's

a low-lit space with an open

kitchen, a Hackney-inspired

graffiti wall, canal-side

tables and bar-style dining from a daily-changing menu. Expect

hearty pasta dishes such as courgette-flower ravioli, Italian tapas

including sopressa salami, and excellent rosemary risotto with

wild mushrooms. And don't miss the incredible Negronis.

NEW OPENINGS

Index

  1. Page 0001
  2. Page 0002
  3. Page 0003
  4. Page 0004
  5. Page 0005
  6. Page 0006
  7. Page 0007
  8. Page 0008
  9. Page 0009
  10. Page 0010
  11. Page 0011
  12. Page 0012
  13. Page 0013
  14. Page 0014
  15. Page 0015
  16. Page 0016
  17. Page 0017
  18. Page 0018
  19. Page 0019
  20. Page 0020
  21. Page 0021
  22. Page 0022
  23. Page 0023
  24. Page 0024
  25. Page 0025
  26. Page 0026
  27. Page 0027
  28. Page 0028
  29. Page 0029
  30. Page 0030
  31. Page 0031
  32. Page 0032
  33. Page 0033
  34. Page 0034
  35. Page 0035
  36. Page 0036
  37. Page 0037
  38. Page 0038
  39. Page 0039
  40. Page 0040
  41. Page 0041
  42. Page 0042
  43. Page 0043
  44. Page 0044
  45. Page 0045
  46. Page 0046
  47. Page 0047
  48. Page 0048
  49. Page 0049
  50. Page 0050
  51. Page 0051
  52. Page 0052
  53. Page 0053
  54. Page 0054
  55. Page 0055
  56. Page 0056
  57. Page 0057
  58. Page 0058
  59. Page 0059
  60. Page 0060
  61. Page 0061
  62. Page 0062
  63. Page 0063
  64. Page 0064
  65. Page 0065
  66. Page 0066
  67. Page 0067
  68. Page 0068
  69. Page 0069
  70. Page 0070
  71. Page 0071
  72. Page 0072
  73. Page 0073
  74. Page 0074
  75. Page 0075
  76. Page 0076
  77. Page 0077
  78. Page 0078
  79. Page 0079
  80. Page 0080
  81. Page 0081
  82. Page 0082
  83. Page 0083
  84. Page 0084
  85. Page 0085
  86. Page 0086
  87. Page 0087
  88. Page 0088
  89. Page 0089
  90. Page 0090
  91. Page 0091
  92. Page 0092
  93. Page 0093
  94. Page 0094
  95. Page 0095
  96. Page 0096
  97. Page 0097
  98. Page 0098
  99. Page 0099
  100. Page 0100
  101. Page 0101
  102. Page 0102
  103. Page 0103
  104. Page 0104
  105. Page 0105
  106. Page 0106
  107. Page 0107
  108. Page 0108
  109. Page 0109
  110. Page 0109
  111. Page 0111
  112. Page 0112
  113. Page 0113
  114. Page 0114
  115. Page 0115
  116. Page 0116
  117. Page 0117
  118. Page 0118
  119. Page 0119
  120. Page 0120
  121. Page 0121
  122. Page 0122
  123. Page 0123
  124. Page 0124
  125. Page 0125
  126. Page 0126
  127. Page 0127
  128. Page 0128
  129. Page 0129
  130. Page 0130
  131. Page 0131
  132. Page 0132
  133. Page 0133
  134. Page 0134
  135. Page 0135
  136. Page 0136
  137. Page 0137
  138. Page 0138
  139. Page 0139
  140. Page 0140
  141. Page 0141
  142. Page 0142
  143. Page 0143
  144. Page 0144
  145. Page 0145
  146. Page 0146
  147. Page 0147
  148. Page 0148
  149. Page 0149
  150. Page 0150
  151. Page 0151
  152. Page 0152
  153. Page 0153
  154. Page 0154
  155. Page 0155
  156. Page 0156
  157. Page 0157
  158. Page 0158
  159. Page 0159
  160. Page 0160
  161. Page 0161
  162. Page 0162
  163. Page 0163
  164. Page 0164
  165. Page 0165
  166. Page 0166
  167. Page 0167
  168. Page 0168
  169. Page 0169
  170. Page 0170
  171. Page 0171
  172. Page 0172
  173. Page 0173
  174. Page 0174
  175. Page 0175
  176. Page 0176
  177. Page 0177
  178. Page 0178
  179. Page 0179
  180. Page 0180
  181. Page 0181
  182. Page 0182
  183. Page 0183
  184. Page 0184
  185. Page 0185
  186. Page 0186
  187. Page 0187
  188. Page 0188
  189. Page 0189
  190. Page 0190
  191. Page 0191
  192. Page 0192
  193. Page 0193
  194. Page 0194
  195. Page 0195
  196. Page 0196
  197. Page 0197
  198. Page 0198
  199. Page 0199
  200. Page 0200
  201. Page 0201
  202. Page 0202
  203. Page 0203
  204. Page 0204
  205. Page 0205
  206. Page 0206
  207. Page 0207
  208. Page 0208
  209. Page 0209
  210. Page 0210
  211. Page 0211
  212. Page 0212

Related Issues

powered by PageTiger