50 � squaremeal.co.uk

BLANDFORD COMPTOIR

1 Blandford Street, W1U 3DA

020 7935 4626 £££

In 2002, aged 23, Xavier Rousset became the world's youngest

Master Sommelier: just one highlight on a CV that includes a stint

at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons. Rousset caused shock waves last

year when he quit Michelin-starred Texture and 28°-50° (the famous

duo he founded with chef Agnar Sverrisson). Blandford Comptoir

marks his return to the game, and we reckon it's a winner.

Friendly staff and a creative Mediterranean menu make this

casual neighbourhood joint immediately appealing. Marble-topped

tables and a smart counter for walk-ins give a classic feel to a small

dining room brought bang up to date with its petrol-blues and

pristine tiling. �e menu by chef Ben Mellor (also ex-28°-50°) focuses

on prime ingredients. Sections are headed 'Fish', 'Vegetable' and

so on. Most dishes are available in starter or main sizes, so you can

choose several small plates to share or the traditional three courses.

We began with thin slivers of raw lamb in a fresh Amalfi lemon

and mint dressing, punctuated by intense bursts of caper: the

carefully layered flavours showing deft culinary skill. A heartier

dish of tender grilled octopus and potatoes epitomised the Med on

a plate, bolstered by rich olives and the kind of tomatoes you usually

only find in sunny markets on foreign holidays. Closer to home,

plump scallops with a light pea velouté and sweet beans reminded us

of an English summer garden.

We can also recommend the quail, its rich jus balanced by the

lighter texture of a truffle and

chicken boudin. It's the perfect

match for a surprisingly silky

Côtes du Rhône from Rousset's

list - which, as you'd hope, is

an oenophile's delight. More

than 50 Champagnes, 20

interesting by-the-glass choices

and knock-out older bottles will

see wine-lovers flocking here.

Marylebone's bon viveurs have a

new reason to celebrate.

NEW OPENINGS

CAFÉ MONICO

39-45 Shaftesbury Avenue, W1D 6LA

020 3727 6161 ££

A classy new brasserie from Soho House, Café Monico brings a

much-needed sense of occasion to Shaftesbury Avenue dining.

�e broad modern British menu adds allure, as does the stylish

vibe that befits its location between two major West End theatres.

Carefully following �e Ivy blueprint, the interior is a classic

mix of dark-green leather, pleated lampshades and white

tablecloths. What was Avalon nightclub has had a mezzanine

level added, radiating around a central bar and blown-glass

chandelier. �e finish might be a notch down from Ivy standards,

but so are the prices: Soho House has done its homework very

carefully. Staff are well-dressed and drilled, jazz bubbles away in

the background, and chatter drifts across the low-lit space.

�e kitchen is overseen by London veteran Rowley Leigh

(founder of Kensington Place and more recently of Le Café

Anglais). From options such as devilled lamb's kidneys, chicken

paillard, and sea bass with black cabbage, we chose a crispytopped

and creamy spinach lasagne. We also sampled Leigh's

signature Parmesan custard and anchovy toast, which turned out

to be a meagre portion of flattened, salty soldiers paired with a

well-balanced light custard: interesting if forgettable.

To follow, an almost perfectly rendered steak tartare was

overwhelmed by (unadvertised) wholegrain mustard, while lamb

with merguez sausages, chickpeas and a lightly spiced sauce had

appealingly vibrant flavour. �e all-too-brief cocktail list offers

refined mixes, and the wine list has ample choice for £20-30.

We recommend a mezzanine table by the curtained windows

for refined people-watching, or a seat at the back for ensconced

escapism. Café Monico should be lauded for providing an

accessible slice of classic London on the tourist highway.

MUST ORDER Parmesan custard with anchovy toast

LIKE THIS? TRY THESE Brasserie Zédel 020 7734 4888

Corbin and King's good-value homage to the great Parisian brasseries

Christopher's 020 7768 1290 Theatreland classic celebrating its 25th

anniversary Joe Allen 020 3544 6061 A hit with both actors and audiences

MUST ORDER Octopus with potatoes and Kalamata olives

Xavier Rousset's reputation

rests secure with this carefully

curated list, featuring some

brilliant choices for both pros and

novices. Champagne and Madeira are

highlights, along with a �ne-wine

section packed with real gems.

BEST BUY Le Laouzil St-Chinian 2014,

Domaine Thierry Navarre, LanguedocRoussillon,

France; £35.

WINE

LIST