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OSTERIA 60

60 Hyde Park Gate,

SW7 5BB

020 7937 8886 £££

An extravagant Milanese

trattoria in the Baglioni

Hotel London, Osteria 60 is

centred around a glamorous

art deco bar. Start with silky

spaghetti-like calamari and

'minestrone soup' (actually

a vivid green pea creation).

Linguine vongole (in a fresh, clam-packed courgette bisque) is

cooked al dente, while deep-fried Parmigiana is especially cheesy.

Franco-Italian vineyards dominate the 140-strong wine list.

Expect the unexpected, such as a cubist chilli-chocolate mousse.

NO 197

CHISWICK FIRE

STATION

197-199 Chiswick High

Road, W4 2DR

020 3857 4669 ££

Emergency call-outs have

been replaced by elegant

all-day drinking and dining

at this relaxed, stripped-back

venue. �e seasonal British

menu ranges from small

and sharing dishes (pig's cheek and black pudding croquettes)

through to more substantial mains, such as sea bass with baby

artichoke and asparagus. �e selection of classic cocktails is

boosted by various infusions, house-made syrups and sherbets.

MORITO

HACKNEY

195 Hackney Road, E2 8JL

020 7613 0754 ££

Sister to the celebrated Moro,

this noisy newcomer inhabits

a capacious, concrete-chic

space. Fun North Africancum-Spanish

meals are in

order - and the vegetarianleaning

menu doesn't

disappoint, offering vibrant

small plates such as cheese fritters with thyme honey. �e

Cretan chef provides the likes of fried aubergine with feta and

date molasses, and don't miss the mango and yoghurt ice cream.

Lingering is discouraged when it's busy, so head to the bar.

TALLI JOE

152-156 Shaftesbury

Avenue, WC2H 8HL

020 7836 5400 ££

�is boozy Indian diner

offers quick bites and

strong drinks to time-poor

theatregoers. Diners are

welcomed with a miniature

Masala Punch from a

cocktail list organised into

India's regions. �e real

draw for us was kale chaat, a crisp, creamy melding of fried

kale, potato, pomegranate and yoghurt. Another highlight was

soft-fleshed sea bass wrapped in a banana leaf. Tweaks are still

needed, but Talli Joe looks ripe for rolling out.

RAJ OF

KENSINGTON

1 Abingdon Road, W8 6AH

020 7937 6182 £££

It may boast a classic

neighbourhood Indian feel,

but the Raj has a menu that

transcends the curry-house

norm. �e food bursts with

distinctive flavours in such

dishes as pan-fried tiger

prawns soaked in cider, or a

prune- and pepper-stuffed paneer kebab. It's also worth trying

regional specialities such as Mangalorean chicken with curry

leaves and coconut milk - not forgetting the well-considered

cocktails. Overall, a solid choice if you're in the area.

THE IVY CAFÉ

WIMBLEDON

VILLAGE

75 High Street, SW19 5EQ

020 3096 9333 ££

Glamorous art deco interiors,

seductive lighting and a

menu of brasserie classics

characterise this latest

outpost of �e Ivy. Prawn

cocktail with creamy avocado

tastes wonderfully fresh

and tangy, and decadent truffle arancini is appetisingly cheesy.

Portions can be overpowering: a succulent, egg-topped chicken

Milanese filled the plate. A crowd-pleasing wine list, reasonable

prices and impeccable service amplify the allure.

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