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OSTERIA 60
60 Hyde Park Gate,
SW7 5BB
020 7937 8886 £££
An extravagant Milanese
trattoria in the Baglioni
Hotel London, Osteria 60 is
centred around a glamorous
art deco bar. Start with silky
spaghetti-like calamari and
'minestrone soup' (actually
a vivid green pea creation).
Linguine vongole (in a fresh, clam-packed courgette bisque) is
cooked al dente, while deep-fried Parmigiana is especially cheesy.
Franco-Italian vineyards dominate the 140-strong wine list.
Expect the unexpected, such as a cubist chilli-chocolate mousse.
NO 197
CHISWICK FIRE
STATION
197-199 Chiswick High
Road, W4 2DR
020 3857 4669 ££
Emergency call-outs have
been replaced by elegant
all-day drinking and dining
at this relaxed, stripped-back
venue. �e seasonal British
menu ranges from small
and sharing dishes (pig's cheek and black pudding croquettes)
through to more substantial mains, such as sea bass with baby
artichoke and asparagus. �e selection of classic cocktails is
boosted by various infusions, house-made syrups and sherbets.
MORITO
HACKNEY
195 Hackney Road, E2 8JL
020 7613 0754 ££
Sister to the celebrated Moro,
this noisy newcomer inhabits
a capacious, concrete-chic
space. Fun North Africancum-Spanish
meals are in
order - and the vegetarianleaning
menu doesn't
disappoint, offering vibrant
small plates such as cheese fritters with thyme honey. �e
Cretan chef provides the likes of fried aubergine with feta and
date molasses, and don't miss the mango and yoghurt ice cream.
Lingering is discouraged when it's busy, so head to the bar.
TALLI JOE
152-156 Shaftesbury
Avenue, WC2H 8HL
020 7836 5400 ££
�is boozy Indian diner
offers quick bites and
strong drinks to time-poor
theatregoers. Diners are
welcomed with a miniature
Masala Punch from a
cocktail list organised into
India's regions. �e real
draw for us was kale chaat, a crisp, creamy melding of fried
kale, potato, pomegranate and yoghurt. Another highlight was
soft-fleshed sea bass wrapped in a banana leaf. Tweaks are still
needed, but Talli Joe looks ripe for rolling out.
RAJ OF
KENSINGTON
1 Abingdon Road, W8 6AH
020 7937 6182 £££
It may boast a classic
neighbourhood Indian feel,
but the Raj has a menu that
transcends the curry-house
norm. �e food bursts with
distinctive flavours in such
dishes as pan-fried tiger
prawns soaked in cider, or a
prune- and pepper-stuffed paneer kebab. It's also worth trying
regional specialities such as Mangalorean chicken with curry
leaves and coconut milk - not forgetting the well-considered
cocktails. Overall, a solid choice if you're in the area.
THE IVY CAFÉ
WIMBLEDON
VILLAGE
75 High Street, SW19 5EQ
020 3096 9333 ££
Glamorous art deco interiors,
seductive lighting and a
menu of brasserie classics
characterise this latest
outpost of �e Ivy. Prawn
cocktail with creamy avocado
tastes wonderfully fresh
and tangy, and decadent truffle arancini is appetisingly cheesy.
Portions can be overpowering: a succulent, egg-topped chicken
Milanese filled the plate. A crowd-pleasing wine list, reasonable
prices and impeccable service amplify the allure.
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