NATHAN OUTLAW'S EVERYDAY SEAFOOD

(£20, Quadrille)

After a two-hour round trip trawling

supermarkets to ­ nd suitable ­ sh and some

girolles, I must take issue

with the title: this red

mullet recipe was not an

'everyday' undertaking.

� at said, there is much

in this Πawed book to

love. David Loftus'

photography is a joy

and if, like Nathan, you

have easy access to the sea, the recipes

work hard to provide obtainable goals: the

introduction stresses the simplicity of the

cooking methods and I concur. However,

the quantities called for were simply wrong

at times and it would take a seasoned cook

to spot such errors beforehand. If you love

light seafood bites, a smattering of wine

know-how and complementary desserts,

you'll love this - just make sure you ­ nd a

clued-up local ­ shmonger ­ rst.

Neil Simpson, news and online editor