squaremeal.co.uk � 125
WINES TO TRY
2014 Grace Koshu Private Reserve, Katsunuma, £19.85, Corking Wines
Fresh and subtly scented with floral notes, this 'village' dry white is
benchmark Koshu: succulently textured with an intense yet supremely
delicate fruit quality balanced by a seamless freshness.
2013 Sol Lucet Koshu, Kurambon, £13, Marks & Spencer
M&S still has small quantities of this vintage, but the 2015, soon
to arrive, shows the virtue of new vintage freshness with its subtle
aromatics, melon-like fruit and juicy texture.
varieties with Koshu. Sparkling Koshu is
yet another style.
�e best Koshu wines tend to be water
white, delicately aromatic, with a fine
texture and bone-dry, almost mineral,
saline quality. "Koshu wine can rarely
be accused of an excess of flavour," says
Jancis Robinson MW, but there is "a
certain Zen-like purity about them" and
they are "generally best drunk young".
Hence their suitability with sushi
and sashimi, while the best can
accompany a broader spectrum of
fish and other delicate dishes.
Sparkling Koshu can be
drunk as an appetisingly
dry aperitif. In its oaked
incarnation, Koshu, like
oaked Sauvignon Blanc, has
to be subtly done to be good,
even if the semi-sweet and
sweet styles have a tendency
�e point to bear in mind is
that Koshu doesn't shout. It is not
and never will be a blockbuster.
Its uniquely delicate fragrance and
elegant dryness require a match of
equally subtly flavoured foods, whether
Japanese or Japanese-influenced.
WHERE TO FIND
KOSHU IN LONDON
A WONG RESTAURANT
70 Wilton Road, SW1V 1DE
37 Charlotte Street, W1T 1RR
30 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZF
9 Conduit Street, W1S 2XG