Page 0127

squaremeal.co.uk � 125

WINES TO TRY

2014 Grace Koshu Private Reserve, Katsunuma, £19.85, Corking Wines

Fresh and subtly scented with floral notes, this 'village' dry white is

benchmark Koshu: succulently textured with an intense yet supremely

delicate fruit quality balanced by a seamless freshness.

2013 Sol Lucet Koshu, Kurambon, £13, Marks & Spencer

M&S still has small quantities of this vintage, but the 2015, soon

to arrive, shows the virtue of new vintage freshness with its subtle

aromatics, melon-like fruit and juicy texture.

WINE

varieties with Koshu. Sparkling Koshu is

yet another style.

�e best Koshu wines tend to be water

white, delicately aromatic, with a fine

texture and bone-dry, almost mineral,

saline quality. "Koshu wine can rarely

be accused of an excess of flavour," says

Jancis Robinson MW, but there is "a

certain Zen-like purity about them" and

they are "generally best drunk young".

Hence their suitability with sushi

and sashimi, while the best can

accompany a broader spectrum of

fish and other delicate dishes.

Sparkling Koshu can be

drunk as an appetisingly

dry aperitif. In its oaked

incarnation, Koshu, like

oaked Sauvignon Blanc, has

to be subtly done to be good,

even if the semi-sweet and

sweet styles have a tendency

to mawkishness.

�e point to bear in mind is

that Koshu doesn't shout. It is not

and never will be a blockbuster.

Its uniquely delicate fragrance and

elegant dryness require a match of

equally subtly flavoured foods, whether

Japanese or Japanese-influenced.

WHERE TO FIND

KOSHU IN LONDON

A WONG RESTAURANT

70 Wilton Road, SW1V 1DE

ROKA

37 Charlotte Street, W1T 1RR

30 North Audley Street, W1K 6ZF

SKETCH

9 Conduit Street, W1S 2XG

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