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For fuller reviews of 11,500 restaurants throughout the UK, visit squaremeal.co.uk squaremeal.co.uk | 63

17 Alimentum

152-154 Hills Road, Cambridge,

CB2 8PB; 01223 413000 ££ [10]

High-impact food in cool surrounds

With its glass frontage, wood š oors, black

tables and red chandeliers, Alimentum brings

a touch of cosmopolitan cool to the fringes

of Cambridge. It's also a spot-on   t for Mark

Poynton's con  dent Michelin-starred cooking.

Bold ideas abound, from asparagus with duck

egg, wild garlic and morels to stone bass with

cauliš ower, langoustine, goats' cheese and

Pedro Ximénez dressing. Desserts are often

mischievous takes on the classics, such as

Battenberg with apricot and Amaretto.

18 The Sportsman

Faversham Road, Seasalter, Kent,

CT5 4BP; 01227 273370 £ [12]

Serious food in a dressed-down boozer

The setting may be a shabby-chic boozer, but

"what a transformation inside!" said one fan

of this Michelin-starred eatery. Chef Stephen

Harris is zealous about local sourcing, but

this is no worthy New Age outpost. Brilliant

breads and home-churned butter set the

tone, while the menu delivers "incredible"

fresh š avours in dishes such as slip sole grilled

in seaweed butter. Cheerful service and

"praiseworthy" wines seal the deal.

19 Restaurant

Sat Bains

Lenton Lane, Nottingham, NG7 2SA;

0115 986 6566 ££ [19]

Original food and obtuse ¥ avours

Sat Bains' restaurant-with-rooms in

Nottingham's industrial wastelands delivers

startlingly original food and an "unforgettable

experience". Bains works to a series of

"masterful tasting menus" with each dish

given a colour-coded "š avour pro  le"

and big hits aplenty among the various

"obtuse" line-ups - from 'steak au poivre'

presented as a tartare with nasturtium leaves

"trembling like lily pads in a water garden" to

a "bonkers combo" of white chocolate, bee

pollen and camomile in the 'chocolate log'.

Amanda Bains oversees the staŠ , and guests

are smitten by the charming sommelier's

knowledge of the top-š ight wine list.

20 Lake Road Kitchen

Lake Road, Ambleside, Cumbria,

LA22 0AD; 015394 22012 ££ NEW ENTRY

A surprising taste of the north

A restaurant run by a chef from worldbeating

Noma is the last thing you'd expect

to   nd in touristy Ambleside, but Lake Road

Kitchen is doing a grand job of challenging

the stereotypes. 'If it doesn't grow in our

northern climate, it's not on the menu' says

the blurb, and James Cross is true to his

word. The Noma-esque dishes include raw

and cured Norwegian salmon tartare with

yoghurt, rye and wood sorrel. One to watch.

1 The Lord Clyde Cheshire 2 The Old Stamp House Cumbria

3 Raby Hunt Restaurant County Durham 4 The Samling Cumbria

5 The Star Inn North Yorkshire

5 More Reader Favourites...

THE NORTH from Square Meal's 2015 reader survey

21 Hambleton Hall

Hambleton, Oakham, Rutland,

LE15 8TH; 01572 756991 ££ NEW ENTRY

Quintessential country house grandeur

It may look like a petite French château, but

everything about this "absolute treasure"

is quintessentially English, with the kitchen

delivering top-class food in the "modern

classic style". The seasons rule, with rabbit

cooked three ways with carrot purée, pearl

barely risotto and liquorice jus the star of one

"super autumnal feast". Aristocratic wines too.

22 Porthminster Beach

Café

Porthminster Beach, St Ives, Cornwall, TR26 2EB;

01736 795352 £ NEW ENTRY

Eclectic food in a funky beach-side eatery

Seafood is a top call on the freewheeling

menu, which might run from wild sea bass

with crab fritter, nouc cham and fragrant

Manchester House Mr Cooper's House Ÿ Garden

Sticky Walnut

The Kitchin

"EVERY LAST DROP IS

PACKED WITH FLAVOUR"

LAURA CAMPBELL ON MANCHESTER HOUSE

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