3 more…BROADGATE EATING
020 3463 0191
020 3589 3970
020 3551 2811
Broadgate Circle, EC2M 1QS
020 7256 5333 Price £50
The third London o ering from turbocharged
Spanish chef José Pizarro sees his
brand of superior, unfussy tapas take on the
competition from nearby revamped Broadgate
Circle. The interior here is informal yet stylish,
with muted colours of slate grey, closely
packed tables and a bustling, open-plan
kitchen that contributes to the convivial air.
The simple menu incorporates most of the
expected Spanish favourites, all rendered to
an uncommonly high standard. Sharing is the
norm. Mushroom croquetas sit proudly on
a terracotta dish, crispy outside and gooey
within; eshy prawn buñuelos (fritters) with
sa ron aïoli are generously portioned and have
a punchy chilli kick. Tapas a cionados should
not miss the nely sliced, smoky jamón ibérico
carved to order, nor the plump mussels served
in dinky metal tins.
It's easy to imagine eating the rich ibérico
meatballs in tomato and orange sauce in a
busy Madrid tapas bar, and they make a lovely
contrast to delicately grilled octopus. You'll
only need a main course to share between
two after all that; try the turbot a la plancha,
served plain, allowing an exquisitely fresh taste
of the sea to shine through, unsullied even by
seasoning (we felt no need to add any).
José Pizarro is open all day (breakfasts and
takeaway lunches are ace, too), so decent
co ee progresses to cava, wine and beer
- which can be enjoyed inside or on the
all-weather terrace. Local suits and the ea st
London set will undoubtedly ock here; we're
certainly pleased Pizarro has taken his talent
beyond Bermondsey and into the Square Mile.
Broadgate Circle, EC2M 2QS
020 3817 9888 Price £61
The largest venue to launch as part of the City's Broadgate Circle
redevelopment, this second Hakkasan wingman specialising in
all-day dim sum doesn't disappoint. As at Soho's original Yauatcha,
the environment is sophisticated, here created by exposed brick, low
lighting and wide chairs, along with impeccably dressed sta . But
the wow-factor is produced by a curved glass wall that follows
the edge of the Circle, lending the restaurant a sweeping
sense of occasion (and making it ideal for people-watching).
The standard snacks are present and correct - crisp on the
outside and succulent within - the likes of sesame prawn
toast and duck rolls dipped in sticky plum sauce. The cheung
fun (steamed rice-pastry rolls stu ed with crisp bean curd
skin and plump prawn chunks) earn their title of signature
dim sum by being moist yet crunchy, while the well-packed
wild mushroom dumplings are a vegetarian highlight.
There's more to the menu than dim sum, although we
found the mains less impressive: an appetising if routine kung
pao chicken arrived with a preponderance of chillis; steamed
halibut with chilli and salted radish, albeit pleasingly light and
fresh, needed more zing. Desserts are beautifully presented,
typi ed by the jasmine honey chocolate bomb: airily light
and delicious - as you'd expect given the restaurant has a
patisserie below, packed with decorative tru¢ es and treats. A
pastel-coloured exotic pandan with passion fruit, mango and
coconut made a refreshing palate cleanser.
It is Yauatcha's smaller, artistic dishes that gain plaudits here -
though sleek decor and exceptional service from charming sta
add to the classy vibe. The dim sum may be more expensive than
in Chinatown restaurants, but are fairly priced given the quality.
But be wary of the drinks list if you want to keep the bill in check.
THE LAST WORD This second branch of the sleek dumpling den brings exquisite dim
sum and patisserie to the new Broadgate Circle development
THE LAST WORD Pizarro's convivial all-day joint brings
the chef's expertly wrought, unfussy tapas and a bustling
Madrilenian vibe to the City - hoorah!
46 | squaremeal.co.uk
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