Page 0042

bars � drink

40 | squaremeal.co.uk

Nine pages of restaurant reviews

start here with high-end Indian

cuisine at the new Chutney Mary

Chutney Mary

73 St James's Street, SW1A 1PH

020 7629 6688 Price £60

Few restaurants manage to make it to their 25th birthday;

even fewer have the con�dence to embark on a new quartercentury

with a move to a completely dierent part of town.

But when the restaurant in question is Chutney Mary, that

con�dence is justi�ed - and then some.

When it opened in 1990, Chutney Mary was the �rst

establishment in London to oer modern Indian cuisine, yet

while its food was always good enough to tempt diners to the

far end of King's Road, many will breathe a sigh of relief that

their favourite Indian restaurant is now located in the heart

of the West End.

It's appropriate that St James's has been chosen for the

new location. If Indian eateries had a royal warrant, they

would surely look like this: generously spaced, comfortably

upholstered and softly illuminated by candlelight. Chutney

HOTTABLES

40 | squaremeal.co.uk

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