squaremeal.co.uk | 29
IN ASSOCIATION WITH
Congratulations to Paul A, Lavazza Square Meal Critic of the Quarter
Following his � rst review for Square Meal
last October (an incisive take on Dinner by
Heston Blumenthal), Paul Atkins has written
more than 30 others, digesting culinary
hotspots around the UK with impressive
detail and exacting standards: "I have no
compunction in dropping restaurants from
my 'must go back to' list if things aren't up to
standard," says Paul. "I feel this philosophy
is much closer to the apolitical approach of
Square Meal and trust its readers appreciate
the fact it handles a tricky market fairly." We can't disagree… Paul
has won a Lavazza Èspria co ee machine (pictured opposite)
plus a £250 meal at a restaurant of his choice. Here are some
extracts from our favourite Paul A verdicts.
The Ledbury
"The amuse-bouches made a brilliant introduction: delicate foiegras
pu s with apple jelly, laver-bread crisp and smoked roe,
and intriguing braised shoulder of muntjac dumplings with fruit
jelly. We then luxuriated in complex oyster chantilly, the oyster
perfectly coordinated with creamy tartare of sea bream, cucumber
and English wasabi. Next came a visual/taste/texture mix of
the highest quality, featuring violet artichokes, grated
frozen foie gras, grapes, duck ham, and hazelnuts.
A deluxe pavé of dark chocolate arrived with a
Japanese ± ourish: pretty cherry blossom leaves
and a soaking of saké. There was just room for
petits fours with co ee, and we agreed without
prompting: this was our best lunch ever."
The runners-up
Mysteriously monikered The Cheese
o ers reviews of everywhere from
The Lido Café to The Ritz. Frank C
is a great source for in-the-know
verdicts on eating in Chiswick. Garry B
dispenses concise, useful tips on casual
City dining. And � nally, Monikasays
hasn't rested since winning Critic of
the Quarter last summer: we love her
engaging dinner tales. Well done to all
of you - enjoy your prizes!
We can't wait to hear where you
rate and what you reject this summer.
Get writing and you could win:
£250 to spend at a restaurant of
your choosing and a Lavazza Èspria
co ee maker
£150 to spend on a meal at Dinner
by Heston at the Mandarin Oriental
Hyde Park
Bottles of Pommery Brut Royal
Champagne and Swiss ne wine
Cases of award-winning wines
Roja Parfums handmade The
Macallan candle worth £50
And the winner is…
"The epitome of fine dining,
consistently providing star
quality cuisine, service and
attention to detail in every
respect" The Artichoke
WEEKEND BREAKS TASTING MENUS HOTEL STAYS CASES OF WINE
THE LEDBURY
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IN ASSOCIATION WITH
"The excellence of this
lunch emphasised the
point that fine dining in
the UK is at least as good
as it is in France" Fera
the fact it handles a tricky market fairly."
perfectly coordinated with creamy tartare of sea bream, cucumber
"Overall, perhaps a bit
more focus on the macro
and less on the micro
would be of benefit"
Northcote