squaremeal.co.uk | 29

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

Congratulations to Paul A, Lavazza Square Meal Critic of the Quarter

Following his � rst review for Square Meal

last October (an incisive take on Dinner by

Heston Blumenthal), Paul Atkins has written

more than 30 others, digesting culinary

hotspots around the UK with impressive

detail and exacting standards: "I have no

compunction in dropping restaurants from

my 'must go back to' list if things aren't up to

standard," says Paul. "I feel this philosophy

is much closer to the apolitical approach of

Square Meal and trust its readers appreciate

the fact it handles a tricky market fairly." We can't disagree… Paul

has won a Lavazza Èspria co  ee machine (pictured opposite)

plus a £250 meal at a restaurant of his choice. Here are some

extracts from our favourite Paul A verdicts.

The Ledbury

"The amuse-bouches made a brilliant introduction: delicate foiegras

pu  s with apple jelly, laver-bread crisp and smoked roe,

and intriguing braised shoulder of muntjac dumplings with fruit

jelly. We then luxuriated in complex oyster chantilly, the oyster

perfectly coordinated with creamy tartare of sea bream, cucumber

and English wasabi. Next came a visual/taste/texture mix of

the highest quality, featuring violet artichokes, grated

frozen foie gras, grapes, duck ham, and hazelnuts.

A deluxe pavé of dark chocolate arrived with a

Japanese ± ourish: pretty cherry blossom leaves

and a soaking of saké. There was just room for

petits fours with co  ee, and we agreed without

prompting: this was our best lunch ever."

The runners-up

Mysteriously monikered The Cheese

o  ers reviews of everywhere from

The Lido Café to The Ritz. Frank C

is a great source for in-the-know

verdicts on eating in Chiswick. Garry B

dispenses concise, useful tips on casual

City dining. And � nally, Monikasays

hasn't rested since winning Critic of

the Quarter last summer: we love her

engaging dinner tales. Well done to all

of you - enjoy your prizes!

We can't wait to hear where you

rate and what you reject this summer.

Get writing and you could win:

£250 to spend at a restaurant of

your choosing and a Lavazza Èspria

co‹ ee maker

£150 to spend on a meal at Dinner

by Heston at the Mandarin Oriental

Hyde Park

Bottles of Pommery Brut Royal

Champagne and Swiss ’ ne wine

Cases of award-winning wines

Roja Parfums handmade The

Macallan candle worth £50

And the winner is…

"The epitome of fine dining,

consistently providing star

quality cuisine, service and

attention to detail in every

respect" The Artichoke

WEEKEND BREAKS TASTING MENUS HOTEL STAYS CASES OF WINE

THE LEDBURY

leave a comment on squaremeal.co.uk

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

"The excellence of this

lunch emphasised the

point that fine dining in

the UK is at least as good

as it is in France" Fera

the fact it handles a tricky market fairly."

perfectly coordinated with creamy tartare of sea bream, cucumber

"Overall, perhaps a bit

more focus on the macro

and less on the micro

would be of benefit"

Northcote