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existence with a wave before we were
suddenly alone again.
Accommodation along the way is on
vast cattle stations where work doesn't
stop when guests arrive, it simply carries
on around them, whip-cracking cowboys
going about their daily chores.
The highlight was crossing
the broad Pentecost River
with its strong tidal currents
and - more worryingly - huge
saltwater crocodiles patrolling
below the surface.
The route is only open
during the dry season, which is generally
between May and October, when the
temperature is a bearable 15-30°C.
If you prefer a slower pace, Rusinga Island
Lodge is a taste of heaven, nestled on the
shores of a remote Kenyan island surrounded
by the shimmering waters of Lake Victoria.
The lodge, a one-and-a-half-hour ight
from Nairobi, is a welcome bush retreat for
those seeking a personalised service in a
tranquil environment. Its charm lies in its
gracious yet discreet hospitality and the
idyllic natural setting.
Moments after landing on a grass airstrip
I was greeted by jovial sta o ering chilled
cocktails. Eight charming, luxury, en suite
thatched cottages are set among manicured
lawns leading down to the shores of the
second largest freshwater lake in the world.
The cuisine is mainly European with an
African twist; freshly barbecued Nile perch
is the house speciality.
For some of the most
scenery on the planet,
an Antarctic expedition
rewards the traveller with
a pristine wilderness it's
hard to put a price on. I travelled with Aurora
Expeditions, who specialise in small-group
polar exploration. It was not a luxury cruise,
rather an adventure expedition.
My 10-day trip to the Antarctic
Peninsula started in the port of Ushuaia,
the southernmost city in the world, in the
Argentinian region of Patagonia.
Every day I watched the scenery unfold
from the bridge. Massive blue icebergs
emerged through mist and snow, towering
above the side of the ship and radiating
cold. Penguins dove through the water and
whales thundered past the bow. Our ship
stopped when two inquisitive humpbacks
swam alongside, one rubbing its body on
the ship before spraying us with whale snot,
a surprisingly priceless experience. We hiked,
climbed, camped, kayaked and broke our
way through this desolate icy paradise.
Access to these exclusive destinations can
come with a hefty price tag, but if you're
prepared to pay for the privilege of getting
as far away from it all as it's possible to go,
you'll be rewarded with a unique and
A 12-day Spirit of Antarctica expedition
costs from £5,440 per person based on
two people sharing (excluding flights)
with Aurora Expeditions;
ARARAS ECO LODGE
Four nights for two people in July-Dec
(peak season) costs £1,320 per person and
£75 per day for a private guide, plus £29
park fee for two people; araraslodge.com.br
An 11-day package from Broome to Darwin
via the Gibb River costs from £1,337 per
person (excluding flights), with Austravel;
INSIDE THE VOLCANO
The volcano tour costs £190 per person;
RUSINGA ISLAND LODGE
Prices from £400 per person per night
in high season (1 July-30 September)
with Africa Travel Resource;
TORNGAT BASE CAMP
Prices from £4,570 per person for six
nights and from £5,630 per person for
nine nights, with Windows on the Wild.
The price includes return flights from
Goose Bay to Saglek, two nights in Goose
Bay on a room-only basis, four or seven
nights at Torngat in an insulated canvas
tent on a full-board basis and all activities;
PART OF THE ATTRACTION IS THE REMOTENESS.
HAVING NO ONE ELSE AROUND FOR HUNDREDS OF
MILES CAN FEEL LIKE A RARE TREAT
A taste of luxury at the Rusinga
Island Lodge on the shores of
Lake Victoria in Kenya
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