Page 0184

182 | squaremeal.co.uk

The only people I know who

visit Zurich take a suit and a

briefcase with them, so when

I told friends I was visiting the

Swiss city for a holiday, a few

gave me questioning looks:

why would I want to go to one of the

world's major nancial centres

to get away from it all? There

is, of course, no escaping the

banks, but after a gentle cruise

on Lake Zurich, looking out

on picturesque villas and the

Alps beyond, I would challenge

anybody to remember their PIN.

As with most long-established European

cities, the best place to begin an exploration

of Zurich is in the Old Town. Sprawling

outwards as Lake Zurich narrows to the River

Limmat, it o‡ers plenty of riverside spots

for an Aperol spritz and a snack, such as the

picturesque Weinplatz square Šanked by

the 17th-century baroque-style town hall.

A short walk from here is Scho‡elgasse, a

street lled with inviting co‡ee shops and

the aromas of delicious food, which are

guaranteed to turn thoughts to dinner.

For some typically hearty Swiss fare I

stayed in the old town, at Zeughauskeller,

a grand, oak-clad restaurant housed in

a former 15th-century weapon store.

The house special is the 'Mayor's Sword',

consisting of marinated steaks pounded thin

and wrapped around the blade of a sword:

a food duel for two. Elsewhere on the menu,

Zeughauskeller's whole pork shank is ovenroasted,

simmered in dark beer and not to

be missed by meat lovers.

In terms of variety, I soon found out that

the further west you head from the city

centre, the more modern and

eclectic the dining options

become. The Markthalle

restaurant was a great lunchtime

discovery, housed beneath

the stone arches of a viaduct

and serving an array of light,

colourful dishes inspired by the adjoining

market. Zurich's tallest building, Prime

Tower, is also to the west, topped o‡ by

the lofty restaurant, bistro and bar o‡ering,

Clouds, a classy space boasting blown-glass

decorations and unparalleled views.

BANK

The further west you head from the

city centre, the more modern and

eclectic the dining options become

With a growing number of top-quality restaurants and two annual food festivals, Zurich has

earned its place on the gastronome's radar WORDS NEIL SIMPSON

on good food

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