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GOOD YEAR FOR

S

ay 'Gold�nger' and everyone

pictures actress Shirley Eaton

in the 1964 Bond movie

being fatally covered from

head to foot with gilt paint

in her role as Jill Masterson.

But few spare a thought for Charles

Engelhard, the American �nancier and

precious metals tycoon who inspired

007 author Ian Fleming to create the

dastardly gold-obsessed evil doer.

The real Engelhard was not, of

course, ruthless in the way that

Gold�nger was, but he was equally

enamoured of gold and would, no

doubt, have been pleased to see

it returning to favour as a popular

material for making wrist watches -

especially, it seems, in the darker and

more subtle form known variously as

'red', 'rose', or 'pink' gold.

The diŠerent descriptions relate

to the ratio of metals that are used

to make this lustrous alloy of gold

and copper, with the most 'coppery'

versions usually referred to as 'red' and

the least as 'pink'. Many people prefer

it to regular 'yellow' gold because it

is both more subtle to look at and

more versatile in terms of what it can

be worn with - the only drawback is

that watches made from red gold are

usually slightly more expensive than

their yellow gold counterparts.

ROLEX YACHT�MASTER

EVEROSE

Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master

in 1992 as a yachtie alternative to the

Submariner dive watch. Originally

made in yellow gold, the Yacht-Master

was then released in a 'bi-metal' gold

and steel version and subsequently the 'Roleseum' model with a case made

from steel and a platinum bezel and

dial. The latter is regarded by many as

the 'classic' Yacht-Master - but this

year the watch becomes available

for the �rst time in patented Rolex

'Everose' gold, which is designed not

to fade over time. The 40mm version

costs £16,650; rolex.com

LONGINES EQUESTRIAN

POCKET WATCH

Longines this year celebrates its longstanding

involvement in the world

of horse racing with the introduction

of this classic-looking pocket watch

based on an example from 1911.

The 40mm, rose gold case is hand

engraved with a trio of horses inspired

by the design of the 1911 original and

contains a hand-wound movement

sitting behind an exquisite dial coated

in polished white lacquer. Just 20

examples will be available worldwide,

each marked with its edition number.

£22,730; longines.com

CHRONOSWISS SIRIUS

RÉGULATEUR JUMPING HOUR

Chronoswiss has chosen an oldschool

look for the latest version of its

delectable Sirius dress watch - and

given it a super-accurate 'regulator'

dial, which features a single hand to

indicate minutes on a large, easy-toread

track, while the hours are taken

care of by a jumping digital display.

The 40mm red gold case has a slim

bezel to enhance the 'openness' of

the watch, and eye-catching additions

in the form of a large, onion crown

and —uted sides. Behind the sterling

silver guilloche dial is a self-winding

movement that can be admired

through the crystal case back.

£13,295; chronoswiss.com

GEORGE GRAHAM

TOURBILLON ORRERY

Clockmaker George Graham was both

an accomplished astronomer and

one of the most in—uential horologists

of the 18th century. Although he

died in 1751 at the age of 78, his

name lives on in the creations of the

modern-day Geo. Graham watch

brand, which specialises in creating

complicated pieces that re—ect the

great man's achievements. One of

the most impressive is the pink gold

Tourbillon Orrery, which replicates

the movements of the moon, the

earth and Mars in relation to the sun.

The back of the watch, meanwhile,

features a 100-year calendar. £264,000;

williamandson.com

ULYSSE NARDIN ULYSSE

ANCHOR TOURBILLON

Ulysse Nardin was founded way back

in 1846 in the Swiss watch-making

town of Le Locle, where it is still based

today. It established a long-standing

link with the sea as a maker of highly

accurate ship's chronometers that

were commissioned by navy —eets

around the world, and the brand

bases many of its current collection

on that original nautical look. It is also

well known for its pursuit of precision

and was one of the �rst companies to

make escapement parts from silicon,

a low-friction material that enhances

accuracy and reduces wear. The

Anchor Tourbillon is the �rst watch

to feature a silicium escapement with

Top row, from

left: Rolex YachtMaster; Longines

Equestrian pocket

watch. Middle

row, from left:

Chronoswiss Sirius;

Geo. Graham

THE ROSES

ADMIRED BY MANY FOR ITS STYLE, SUBTLETY AND VERSATILITY, ROSE GOLD

IS CURRENTLY A POPULAR CHOICE FOR WRIST WATCHES WORDS SIMON DE BURTON