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GOOD YEAR FOR
S
ay 'Gold�nger' and everyone
pictures actress Shirley Eaton
in the 1964 Bond movie
being fatally covered from
head to foot with gilt paint
in her role as Jill Masterson.
But few spare a thought for Charles
Engelhard, the American �nancier and
precious metals tycoon who inspired
007 author Ian Fleming to create the
dastardly gold-obsessed evil doer.
The real Engelhard was not, of
course, ruthless in the way that
Gold�nger was, but he was equally
enamoured of gold and would, no
doubt, have been pleased to see
it returning to favour as a popular
material for making wrist watches -
especially, it seems, in the darker and
more subtle form known variously as
'red', 'rose', or 'pink' gold.
The dierent descriptions relate
to the ratio of metals that are used
to make this lustrous alloy of gold
and copper, with the most 'coppery'
versions usually referred to as 'red' and
the least as 'pink'. Many people prefer
it to regular 'yellow' gold because it
is both more subtle to look at and
more versatile in terms of what it can
be worn with - the only drawback is
that watches made from red gold are
usually slightly more expensive than
their yellow gold counterparts.
ROLEX YACHT�MASTER
EVEROSE
Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master
in 1992 as a yachtie alternative to the
Submariner dive watch. Originally
made in yellow gold, the Yacht-Master
was then released in a 'bi-metal' gold
and steel version and subsequently the 'Roleseum' model with a case made
from steel and a platinum bezel and
dial. The latter is regarded by many as
the 'classic' Yacht-Master - but this
year the watch becomes available
for the �rst time in patented Rolex
'Everose' gold, which is designed not
to fade over time. The 40mm version
costs £16,650; rolex.com
LONGINES EQUESTRIAN
POCKET WATCH
Longines this year celebrates its longstanding
involvement in the world
of horse racing with the introduction
of this classic-looking pocket watch
based on an example from 1911.
The 40mm, rose gold case is hand
engraved with a trio of horses inspired
by the design of the 1911 original and
contains a hand-wound movement
sitting behind an exquisite dial coated
in polished white lacquer. Just 20
examples will be available worldwide,
each marked with its edition number.
£22,730; longines.com
CHRONOSWISS SIRIUS
RÉGULATEUR JUMPING HOUR
Chronoswiss has chosen an oldschool
look for the latest version of its
delectable Sirius dress watch - and
given it a super-accurate 'regulator'
dial, which features a single hand to
indicate minutes on a large, easy-toread
track, while the hours are taken
care of by a jumping digital display.
The 40mm red gold case has a slim
bezel to enhance the 'openness' of
the watch, and eye-catching additions
in the form of a large, onion crown
and uted sides. Behind the sterling
silver guilloche dial is a self-winding
movement that can be admired
through the crystal case back.
£13,295; chronoswiss.com
GEORGE GRAHAM
TOURBILLON ORRERY
Clockmaker George Graham was both
an accomplished astronomer and
one of the most inuential horologists
of the 18th century. Although he
died in 1751 at the age of 78, his
name lives on in the creations of the
modern-day Geo. Graham watch
brand, which specialises in creating
complicated pieces that reect the
great man's achievements. One of
the most impressive is the pink gold
Tourbillon Orrery, which replicates
the movements of the moon, the
earth and Mars in relation to the sun.
The back of the watch, meanwhile,
features a 100-year calendar. £264,000;
ULYSSE NARDIN ULYSSE
ANCHOR TOURBILLON
Ulysse Nardin was founded way back
in 1846 in the Swiss watch-making
town of Le Locle, where it is still based
today. It established a long-standing
link with the sea as a maker of highly
accurate ship's chronometers that
were commissioned by navy eets
around the world, and the brand
bases many of its current collection
on that original nautical look. It is also
well known for its pursuit of precision
and was one of the �rst companies to
make escapement parts from silicon,
a low-friction material that enhances
accuracy and reduces wear. The
Anchor Tourbillon is the �rst watch
to feature a silicium escapement with
Top row, from
left: Rolex YachtMaster; Longines
Equestrian pocket
watch. Middle
row, from left:
Chronoswiss Sirius;
Geo. Graham
THE ROSES
ADMIRED BY MANY FOR ITS STYLE, SUBTLETY AND VERSATILITY, ROSE GOLD
IS CURRENTLY A POPULAR CHOICE FOR WRIST WATCHES WORDS SIMON DE BURTON