bars � drink
squaremeal.co.uk | 85
CLASS & CRASS
What's hot and what's not in the capital's drinking dens
'AIR OF THE DOG
After a heavy session, nothing beats a restorative Bloody
Mary and some air around your gills. This year, that means
On the Roof at Selfridges, Coppa London, Skylounge London,
Dalston Roof Park, Queen of Hoxton, Radio at ME London
Hotel, The Garden at The Bingham, The Midnight Apothecary,
Coq d'Argent and canal cruises with Vestal Voyages.
2014'S BREAKFAST MARTINI?
Among the current crop of cocktails, none polarises opinion
more than Matt Whiley's vodka Martini with its rotaryevaporated
Marmite yeast extraction. We're sold, but why
not take the taste challenge at Peg + Patriot (see review)?
Last popular here circa Saturday Night Fever, we're digging this
summer's trend for much improved and ever-lovely Lambrusco.
Sparkling brands such as Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Tenuta
Pederzana are available from Vini Italiani.
Available across the USA in both rum and vodka avours,
Palcohol is being touted here as powdered hooch in just-addwater
sachets for 'the active guy to enjoy after hiking, biking
and kayaking'. Our instant reaction? No ta, Pal!
'THE ULTIMATE DRINK CONNOISSEUR'S HOLIDAY'
For the last word in bespoke boozy blow-outs, here's a 10-city
tour. In Dubai, Monaco, Melbourne, New York etc, you'll sip
everything from Legacy by Angostura (the 'world's most
expensive rum') to an 1858 Croizet Cognac-based cocktail.
With jets and digs included, it's all yours for around £750,000
per couple via holidaysplease.co.uk
C'EST CHIC? NON!
In the 1970s, for every Chic, Shalamar or Evelyn Champagne
King classic there was a dud à la Rick Dees' Disco Duck. Ditto
today's disco drinks revival. Leave Juicy Pussy, Slow Comfortable
Screw, Pink Squirrel et al to the decade that good taste forgot!
4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY; no telephone
Mews of Mayfair's new sibling comes on like the sort of Milanese bling
magnet where they valet-park mink coats - a riot of jet-black marble,
dark mirrors and gilded art deco. 'Cartizze' is named after premier
Prosecco vineyards, and its superior bubbles prove a savvy alternative
to the chill cabinet's stock of Krug and Dom Pérignon big tickets -
not that price concerns Bond Street's cashmere classes. Otherwise,
various fruity Bellinis appear on a list that also has the usual Como
cocktail hour suspects, plus Olive Oil Gin Fizz and a weird Tru² ed
Liquorice Sour that may firstname.lastname@example.org taste. Bar snacks such as
beef carpaccio or gs wrapped in San Daniele ham are suitably 'bella
gura'. Note: bookings by email only (email@example.com).
are markedly di erent. The D Groner (a curiosity involving essence
of 'salt beef bagel Cognac', bitters and mustard leaf) will thrill fans of
Frazzles, while bonkers bedfellows Jägermeister and Red Bull appear
in Whiley's take on a classic Hanky-Panky. Also beware the outré
vodka Marmite Martini with fried olive brine. Meanwhile, 'pegs' (the
old English equivalent of a 'dram') include various house-distilled gins
in drinks that are fun and experimental… with the emphasis on the
latter adjective's last two syllables.
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge,
SW1X 7LA; 020 7235 2000
Occupying a 'lost' room once frequented by bigwigs such as Victorian
PM Lord Rosebery, this elegant hotel lounge now makes a dreamy
pitstop for those who want to
chill down and take afternoon
tea after hitting Harvey Nics.
In the evening, however,
The Rosebery champions
Champagne cocktails for
around the price of a YSL
lippy - so pucker up for
Lipstick Touch (bubbles with
vodka, rose petals, violets and
raspberries) or Oriental Velvet
(with saké, chocolate and
agave syrup). Between Ruinart
at £18 a stem and four- gure bottles, there's also bubbly interest from
names such as Bauchet and Thiénot for around £80. Saké is stocked
in depth, while decadent bar bites run from crispy lobster rolls to foie
gras roulade with raspberry, pistachio and Sauternes jelly.
AROUND THE PRICE
OF A YSL LIPPY