Page 0087

bars � drink

squaremeal.co.uk | 85

CLASS & CRASS

What's hot and what's not in the capital's drinking dens

CLASS

'AIR OF THE DOG

After a heavy session, nothing beats a restorative Bloody

Mary and some air around your gills. This year, that means

On the Roof at Selfridges, Coppa London, Skylounge London,

Dalston Roof Park, Queen of Hoxton, Radio at ME London

Hotel, The Garden at The Bingham, The Midnight Apothecary,

Coq d'Argent and canal cruises with Vestal Voyages.

2014'S BREAKFAST MARTINI?

Among the current crop of cocktails, none polarises opinion

more than Matt Whiley's vodka Martini with its rotaryevaporated

Marmite yeast extraction. We're sold, but why

not take the taste challenge at Peg + Patriot (see review)?

SUMMER LOVES

Last popular here circa Saturday Night Fever, we're digging this

summer's trend for much improved and ever-lovely Lambrusco.

Sparkling brands such as Grasparossa di Castelvetro and Tenuta

Pederzana are available from Vini Italiani.

CRASS

PALCOHOL

Available across the USA in both rum and vodka Ÿ avours,

Palcohol is being touted here as powdered hooch in just-addwater

sachets for 'the active guy to enjoy after hiking, biking

and kayaking'. Our instant reaction? No ta, Pal!

'THE ULTIMATE DRINK CONNOISSEUR'S HOLIDAY'

For the last word in bespoke boozy blow-outs, here's a 10-city

tour. In Dubai, Monaco, Melbourne, New York etc, you'll sip

everything from Legacy by Angostura (the 'world's most

expensive rum') to an 1858 Croizet Cognac-based cocktail.

With jets and digs included, it's all yours for around £750,000

per couple via holidaysplease.co.uk

C'EST CHIC? NON!

In the 1970s, for every Chic, Shalamar or Evelyn Champagne

King classic there was a dud à la Rick Dees' Disco Duck. Ditto

today's disco drinks revival. Leave Juicy Pussy, Slow Comfortable

Screw, Pink Squirrel et al to the decade that good taste forgot!

Cartizze

4 Lancashire Court, W1S 1EY; no telephone

Mews of Mayfair's new sibling comes on like the sort of Milanese bling

magnet where they valet-park mink coats - a riot of jet-black marble,

dark mirrors and gilded art deco. 'Cartizze' is named after premier

Prosecco vineyards, and its superior bubbles prove a savvy alternative

to the chill cabinet's stock of Krug and Dom Pérignon big tickets -

not that price concerns Bond Street's cashmere classes. Otherwise,

various fruity Bellinis appear on a list that also has the usual Como

cocktail hour suspects, plus Olive Oil Gin Fizz and a weird Tru² ed

Liquorice Sour that may notables@cartizzebar.com taste. Bar snacks such as

beef carpaccio or • gs wrapped in San Daniele ham are suitably 'bella

• gura'. Note: bookings by email only (tables@cartizzebar.com).

are markedly di‘ erent. The D Groner (a curiosity involving essence

of 'salt beef bagel Cognac', bitters and mustard leaf) will thrill fans of

Frazzles, while bonkers bedfellows Jägermeister and Red Bull appear

in Whiley's take on a classic Hanky-Panky. Also beware the outré

vodka Marmite Martini with fried olive brine. Meanwhile, 'pegs' (the

old English equivalent of a 'dram') include various house-distilled gins

in drinks that are fun and experimental… with the emphasis on the

latter adjective's last two syllables.

The Rosebery

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge,

SW1X 7LA; 020 7235 2000

Occupying a 'lost' room once frequented by bigwigs such as Victorian

PM Lord Rosebery, this elegant hotel lounge now makes a dreamy

pitstop for those who want to

chill down and take afternoon

tea after hitting Harvey Nics.

In the evening, however,

The Rosebery champions

Champagne cocktails for

around the price of a YSL

lippy - so pucker up for

Lipstick Touch (bubbles with

vodka, rose petals, violets and

raspberries) or Oriental Velvet

(with saké, chocolate and

agave syrup). Between Ruinart

at £18 a stem and four-• gure bottles, there's also bubbly interest from

names such as Bauchet and Thiénot for around £80. Saké is stocked

in depth, while decadent bar bites run from crispy lobster rolls to foie

gras roulade with raspberry, pistachio and Sauternes jelly.

THE ROSEBERY

CHAMPIONS

CHAMPAGNE

COCKTAILS FOR

AROUND THE PRICE

OF A YSL LIPPY

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