46 | squaremeal.co.uk
The Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch
High Street, E1 6JJ
020 3011 5911 Price £62
James Lowe (see p.62) has been
a notable face on London's food
scene for several years, making a
name as one of The Young Turks
chefs collective. So it's good to
report that his rst solo venture
delivers on high expectations.
White brick walls, a concrete
oor and low-hanging lights give
an o puttingly harsh, trendconscious
look, but the cooking
exudes more warmth. The eightcourse,
daily dinner menu goes
big on British ingredients, though
Scandinavian in uences abound
in small plates such as an earthy,
sweet cake of blood pudding
with damson and chicory, crispy
lamb's sweetbreads served with
punchy wild garlic, and a tangy
nettle soup with melting strips
of cured pig's cheek.
Leaves and vegetables take
prominence throughout (fennel
even turns up in a pudding with
yoghurt and apple), but it's less
monotonous on plate than it
sounds on paper - thanks to
rich sauces and bold seasoning.
Lunchtime o ers the option of
a simple à la carte - something
we'd also like to see at dinner.
Vermouth is the backbone
of a short cocktail menu, while
natural and biodynamic wines
with fresh, complex and vegetal
avours are well suited to the
grassy tones of the food.
3 more…FEASTS IN THE EAST
8 Hoxton Square
020 3463 0529
Boisdale of Canary Wharf
020 3641 8315
020 3589 3932
Town Hall Hotel, Patriot Square, E2 9NF
020 7871 0461 Price £ 66
Following chef Nuno Mendes's departure to the red-hot
Chiltern Firehouse, Viajante has become Typing Room - a
new venture backed by man of the moment Jason Atherton.
At the helm is Lee Westcott (see p.62), fresh from a stint
with Atherton in Hong Kong - though the new venture is
de nitely not part of the all-conquering 'Social' brand.
Not much has changed inside - apart from a lick of paint.
The open kitchen is a picture of calm, buzzy pro ciency,
while friendly sta with smiles on their faces ferry zesty
aperitifs from the adjoining Peg + Patriot bar (see p.84).
Expect a menu of dazzlingly fresh, clean- avoured dishes
based on seasonal British ingredients, combining colour and
interest at every turn - witness a delicate starter of melt-inthe-mouth
veal sweetbreads with raw peas, charred white
asparagus and a sweet buttermilk emulsion.
Mains cover all bases, from aky, salty turbot partnered
with juicy heritage tomatoes, courgette, squid and samphire
to die-hard meaty plates of lamb with tiny dollops of intense
smoked aubergine purée, wild garlic and silky-sweet little
onions. To nish, we were sold on a dessert called 'chocolate,
Amaretto and almond' - meticulously placed blobs, swirls
and globules highlighting di erent avours and textures.
succeeded in creating
a new destination
dining room that even
those from the furthest
reaches of town should
bookmark for a trip.
THE LAST WORD
Lee Westcott makes a
bold statement of intent
Traditionally divided by country, with a
focus on France, Spain and Italy. Beside
a selection of big-hitting Bordeaux and
Burgundy, this pricey list also has good
by-the-glass choices, quirky wines such
as Japanese Koshu and a decent sherry
range. BEST BUY Txakoli de Getaria 2012,
Bodegas Ametzoi, Getaria, Spain, £39.
THE LAST WORD Thoughtful, inventive and on-trend � avours from this Young Turk
LYLE'S PHOTO: GIRARD LACHAINE