40 | squaremeal.co.uk
24th Floor, Tower 42, 25 Old Broad Street, EC2N 1HQ
020 7877 7703 Price £65
Walking through Jason Atherton's latest head-turner is
a bit like striding across the deck of a sleek ocean liner:
dark wood clacks underfoot, oor-to-ceiling glass
a ords dizzy views to the horizon and it's possible
to make a full circuit of the entire venue. Even the
lavatories (and the kitchen) have spectacular views.
Overseen by chef Paul Walsh (ex-Restaurant
Gordon Ramsay), the food is less fussed over than
at Atherton's agship Pollen Street Social, with
vibrant presentation allowing the dishes to shine
against the sombre brown and gold furnishings.
A starter of creamy burrata garlanded with red
and yellow heritage and heirloom tomatoes bursts
with fresh avours, while dots of chilled tomato
consommé and a sprinkling of frozen basil add
contrast to the mellow cheese. To follow, Creedy Carver
duck with English berry chutney has matching deepmauve
hues, with soft boulangère potatoes and crisp
shallot slices delivering a wonderful blend of textures.
Heightened luxury comes by way of whole Scottish
lobster, a stack of duck-fat chips and a sauce boat of
tangy choron sauce on the side. To nish, Atherton's
rst public sortie into the world of sou és is a
triumph, judging by our exemplary strawberry
version - although we found the kitchen's take
on rum baba strangely uninspiring.
Atherton's progress across
London's restaurant scene has
been rapid and ambitious, but
standards remain sky-high and
City Social already has the makings
of another towering hit.
French fans will love this list which roams
classic regions from Alsace to the Rhône
Valley, with big Bordeaux and Burgundy
selections. A few other countries such as
Italy do get a look-in, but this selection is
really a Francophile's delight. BEST BUY
L'Indigène 2011, Mas des Agrunelles,
Coteaux du Languedoc, France, £38.
THE LAST WORD Jason Atherton takes to the
sky in style, as he brings his Social brand to the City
Level 34, The Shard, 31 St Thomas Street, SE1 9QU
020 7234 8108 Price £75
Soaring almost to the top of London's skyscraper
charts (just behind its City neighbours Duck Wa e
and Sushisamba), Ting occupies Level 35 of The Shard
and is part of the long-awaited Shangri-La Hotel. The
minimalist decor is plush but plain, with gently orientalthemed
furniture and wall hangings allowing the
impressive cross-city views to do the talking.
The skyline is a good match for a cosmopolitan menu
that deploys seasonal British ingredients (including
plenty from Borough Market down below) in panEuropean
dishes, many sprinkled with bright Asian
avours in a nod to the hotel's Far East heritage.
Plump, succulent scallops come prettily served with
edible owers on a creamy carrot purée that's lifted by
ginger, mandarin and coriander, while meaty halibut
responds well to the teriyaki treatment - although a
robustly avoured yet delicately textured rib-eye steak
with tru e jus provided the standout when we visited.
To conclude, rosewater parfait with pink Champagne
jelly, guava and a white chocolate
crumb provides an elegantly
subtle nale, while some gutsier
o -the-wall wine pairings from the
charismatic sommelier also make a
Ting is a slick and sexy, if slightly
safe bet, with crowd-pleasing
avours and breathtaking views.
THE LAST WORD High-up , high-end and
highly enjoyable, but very hotelish
3 more…DINING ON HIGH
020 7768 3416
020 7768 3417
020 3641 8307
at City Social