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A (relatively) brief lunchtime carte is another

concession to the location, though anyone who

has eaten at L'Enclume will know that multi-course

tasting menus are the way to go - particularly

when the line-up includes dense whipped potato

and salty Winslade cheese studded with springy

diced duck heart or stewed rabbit frilled with

crisp ribbons of batter (bunny bhaji, anyone?).

Other memorable •avour hits range from

a grilled salad with Isle of Mull cheese, tru–e

custard and sun•ower seeds to garden-fresh pea

wafers with fennel and •owers. In fact, it can sometimes seem that

there are more •oral bouquets than you'll see on a Sunday morning

down Columbia Road market and enough herbs to make Culpeper

proud: raw prawns and lardo pointed up with borage; plaice braised

in nettle butter; chrysanthemum in a dish of asparagus.

There's no doubting the skill on show here, and several plates

were the sort of never-tasted-before creations that stop you in your

tracks. However we felt that •avours were not sustained as vividly as

at L'Enclume and found ourselves wondering halfway

through the 16 small courses whether the dishes had

become duller or our palates had become dulled.

Perhaps the problem is that Rogan's style of food

still feels as if it has been transplanted from Cumbria

rather than tasting as if it has taken root in Mayfair.

As for the service, so many diœerent staœ kept

appearing at our table that it made sustained

conversation dižcult. And then there is the cost,

which seems OTT even for Claridge's. Nonetheless,

we're convinced that Fera will get better with time.

KEY TO REVIEWS Prices are based on a two-course dinner (starter and main)

for one, including half a bottle of house wine, coffee, cover charge, service and

vegetables. Square Meal stars are awarded to favourite restaurants based on

the overall experience. Two and three stars are given (more selectively) to places

that truly capture the zeitgeist and bear comparison with the best in the world.

THE LAST WORD Thrilling con�rmation of Rogan's arrival in the international big league

WINE LIST

As be�ts a high-pro�le eatery in a top

hotel, this list focuses on France and

contains some jaw-dropping rarities,

such as Pétrus 1982 for £8,000. But it

also o�ers plenty of choice and prices

to suit all pockets. BEST BUY Ruché di

Castagnole Monferrato 2012, Cascina

'Tavijn, Piedmont, Italy, £38.