bars � drink
38 | squaremeal.co.uk
Eight pages of London restaurant
reviews start here with our verdict
on Simon Rogan's Claridge's outpost
Claridge's, Brook Street, W1K 4HR
020 3551 2823 Price £115
Following the closure of his extended Marylebone pop-up
Roganic, Simon Rogan - he of two-Michelin-starred L'Enclume
in Cumbria - has taken over the space formerly home to
Gordon Ramsay at Claridge's. It feels like a good t for a chef
who has been likened to Danish superstar René Redzepi with
his passion for all things earthy, seasonal and local. (Don't
forget Redzepi had a sell-out residency at the hotel in 2012).
Rogan has said that Fera (the Latin word for 'wild') contains
the DNA of L'Enclume while being respectful of Claridge's
heritage, and so it proves: the dining room remains a grand
art-deco space of soaring columns and ocean-liner proportions,
but bare walnut tables, green leather seating and stone-andslate
tableware reference Rogan's much-lauded 'natural'
approach to gastronomy - though the petried tree at the
centre of the room is a curiously inert touch.