20 | squaremeal.co.uk
CRACKING YOLKS � PIG TALES
(£19.99, Kyle Books)
Anyone hoping that Cracking
Yolks � Pig Tales will be a
hearty homage to the joys
of nose-to-tail eating should
have a quick � ick through
it before purchasing. Glynn
Purnell is Birmingham's
most famous chef and
for anybody but the most
dedicated cook, these are
the sort of complex recipes
best read about at home
then eaten in a restaurant, something
underlined by the arty, rather austere
photography. But there are a handful of
simpler dishes: red mullet llets, brie� y
baked and served with broccoli, were a
cinch to prepare and the accompanying
Jerusalem artichoke and vanilla purée
gave a real � ourish of che y technique for
minimal e ort. And Purnell's writing style
is refreshingly like the man himself: downto-earth
and engaging - even when he's
telling you to blowtorch a lettuce leaf.
Ben McCormack, editor
REVOLUTIONARY
FRENCH COOKING
(£20, Duncan Baird)
French chef Daniel Galmiche
heads the show at The
Vineyard at Stockcross
and his book boasts '100
innovative French recipes'.
It starts with the basics,
including the chicken stock
recipe used to make smoked
chicken, courgette, garlic and
rosemary casserole. This is a
hearty crowd-pleaser with
a touch of elegance as well as complication
in the form of green tea-smoked chicken. It
sounds daunting but it's a relatively simple
a air involving a vegetable steamer. Once
cooked, the subtle tea smoke provided a
delicious note of accomplishment.
Lucy Britner, sta� writer and sub editor
Anyone hoping that
Yolks � Pig Tales
hearty homage to the joys
of nose-to-tail eating should
have a quick � ick through
it before purchasing. Glynn
Purnell is Birmingham's
most famous chef and
for anybody but the most
dedicated cook, these are
the sort of complex recipes
best read about at home
then eaten in a restaurant, something
HO NEY & CO:
FOOD FROM
THE MIDDLE EAST
(£25, Saltyard Books)
Falafel fans rejoice! You'll find
three recipes for this Middle
Eastern favourite in Honey
& Co's book, plus the full
complement of mezze dishes,
dips, salads, breads and rich
slow-cooked dishes, such as the melting lamb
shawarma that I made. There are recipes to
suit all abilities, written in an accessible
style with mouth-watering photographs.
Julie Sheppard, managing editor
LA PATISSERIE
DES REVES
(£25, Grub Street)
The sublime pastry shop
whose name means 'the
patisserie of dreams'
has released a book to
salivate over. Separated
into chapters such as
Teatime Treats and Seasonal Fruit Tarts, there's
plenty for the keen baker to get stuck into, from
praline shortbread to rum babas. The chocolate
sponge cake challenged technical ability without
stretching it too far, and resulted in a delicious
light sponge. Be warned: certain hard-to-find
ingredients might have to be ordered online.
Laura Foster, assistant editor
SOCIAL SUPPERS
(£25, Absolute Press)
Having spread his social eating
philosophy across London,
Jason Atherton's next move
is to bring it to your home,
with an emphasis on unfussy
dishes of the sort you'd eat
at his restaurants. A recipe
for meatballs in tomato sauce was easy to
follow and quick to prepare, and the end
result impressive. Some recipes feature cheffy
ingredients that will need seeking out, but the
cooking is straightforward, allowing the host to
socialise, rather than slaving in the kitchen.
Ben Norum, news and online editor
LA PATISSERIE
DES REVES
(£25, Grub Street)
The sublime pastry shop
whose name means 'the
patisserie of dreams'
has released a book to
salivate over. Separated
into chapters such as
slow-cooked dishes, such as the melting lamb
Want to get a taste of your favourite restaurant chez toi? Look no further than these
new tomes whose recipes have been tried and tasted by the Square Meal team
cookingthebooks