CHAMPAGNE SPECIAL

176 | squaremeal.co.uk

Pleasure without Champagne is purely arti�cial,' quipped

Oscar Wilde, who was partial to a glass or two. And while

it is possible to have a cracking time without cracking

open a bottle of �zz, there is no denying that Champagne

brings a hedonistic froth to proceedings. It's something

that we Brits have long understood, being the thirstiest

qua ers of bubbly after the French.

But for all that, we're often stumped when it comes to knowing

which style of Champagne to buy. This is especially true when dining

out, where a plethora of styles (and prices) on wine lists can render the

best of us giddy before we've touched a drop. To really impress that

sommelier, and to gain maximum cred

with wine-savvy friends, a few simple

tips can help achieve maximum �zzical

pleasure. The �rst thing to remember

is that there is a style of Champagne

to match every occasion.

Wine for all reasons

There is no better place to start than with non-vintage (NV). This is

Champagne at its everyday best, skilfully blended from wines from

several years to achieve a consistent 'house' style. Versatile, eminently

drinkable and carrying the producer's reputation, NV is like a little

black dress that can be dressed up or down for the occasion.

Non-vintage Champagnes range from lighter, more delicate wines,

such as Perrier Jouët's Grand Brut NV, perfect as an aperitif, to richer,

more full-bodied numbers such as Ruinart NV, that will pair well with

amuse-bouches and lighter starters. Think also in terms of summer-

and winter-weight wines, of whether you're in need of a frivolous

cocktail party tipple or a more serious preprandial wine. Then ask your

sommelier (or local wine shop) to recommend a �zz accordingly. From

�sh and chips to sushi, NV Champagne's uplifting bubbles and vibrant

acidity make for a great everyday food companion.

In the know

So far so good, but it's time to step up a level. This is where the serious

blu er's skill comes in handy and a little knowledge goes a long way.

The British have long had a taste for the richer, more evolved depths

o ered by vintage Champagne (see p.184 for more). The extra age

of these single-vintage wines from the best years gives them the

intensity to match meaty dishes. Often sublime with birds such as

goose and duck (try a full-bodied Veuve Clicquot or Moët ” Chandon),

a good vintage will take pork and crackling in its stride, and works as a

decadent brunch reviver alongside a tricky dish such as eggs Benedict.

Meanwhile, blanc de blancs and blanc de noirs are Champagnes

made from either 100% white Chardonnay (blancs) or 100% red Pinot

Noir and/or Pinot Meunier (noirs), rather than the more usual blend of

white and red grapes. A note - while made from red grapes, remember

that blanc de noirs are actually white.

Blanc de blancs loves a piscatorial feast, the creamy seductiveness

of the Chardonnay being a great partner to seafood (Salon, Taittinger,

Pol Roger and Jacquart make elegant examples). Meanwhile, the redfruit

scented blanc de noirs can rise to the challenge of lean meats

such as game birds and venison, along with hard cheeses.

Pinot Noir-based rosé Champagnes also

boast subtle but �rm character - plus that

pretty pink colour which spells 'romance'.

They pair across a wide range of food, from

scallops and lobster to meatier dishes -

especially if you pick vintage rosé. Try the

superb Billecart-Salmon or Gosset rosés.

Opposites attract

Next, two polar opposites superb for bookending a meal. The �rst

is brut nature (or brut zero), born of a recent fashion for bone-dry

Champagne, which sits well with bone-dry, often salty or tangy foods,

such as caviar, shell�sh, or East Asian cuisine. This dryness also works

as a contrast to fatty textures like black pudding. Billecart-Salmon Extra

Brut NV and Perle d'Ayala Nature Brut 2002 are superb examples.

In contrast you'll also �nd sweeter, o -dry styles of Champagne,

known as demi-sec. Try Jacquart's fruity, medium-dry sweet style,

which is perfect at the end of a meal, giving a gentle lift to drier

desserts such as berry-laden dishes, cakes or lemony tarts.

Finally, topping the billing - and often in a stratospheric price

league of their own - are the prestige cuvée wines. Complex, elegant,

sublimely balanced yet sumptuous, these represent the best a

Champagne house can produce and are ideal for special occasions.

At this level it's as much about appreciation of the house style as

personal preference. Still, there's much to choose from, with stand-out

suggestions ranging from the classy depths of Krug's single-vineyard

Clos du Mesnil (a blanc de blancs) by way of the elegant toastiness of

Pol Roger's Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill to the �nesse and precision of

Louis Roederer's Cristal and the much-fêted Dom Pérignon.

Above all, the best advice is to discuss options with your sommelier

or local shop. Remember they are passionate about �nding you the

best wine to suit your budget, occasion and meal.

Be a �zz pro with our blu�er's guide to choosing Champagne WORDS ANDREW CATCHPOLE

call my bluff

TO IMPRESS THAT SOMMELIER,

A FEW SIMPLE TIPS CAN HELP

ACHIEVE FIZZICAL PLEASURE

ILLUSTRATION: MARIE¥HELENE JEEVES