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F

ood tastes di erent in Malta. It tastes more real. Almost

every bite of every dish - from sea-caught „ sh and squid

to farm-reared rabbit and handmade cheese - explodes

with Mediterranean zing. We're here to explore everything

that makes up Malta's gastronomic reputation.

'My brother lives in Newmarket,' says our guide, Clive

Cortis, at one point. 'When he comes home, the „ rst thing he

does is eat a tomato. You don't get them like this in England.'

Malta may be one of the world's smallest countries - just

400,000 people live on its three islands of 122 sq miles - but

when it comes to food, it's a big hitter. This little archipelago

some 90 miles south of Italy is already popular with holidaymakers

from northern Europe because of its warm climate, stunning

scenery, buzzy nightlife and 7,000-year heritage. But in an age

when holidaymakers increasingly want to eat fresh and eat local,

the place is earning a reputation as a cuisine paradise too.

Taste sensation

And it's easy to see why. From our „ rst lunch - at Gululu, an amazing

waterfront diner overlooking touristy St Julian's bay and specialising in

Maltese food - to our last lunch at Rogantino's, a restaurant housed in

a 16th-century hunting lodge near the ancient city of Rabat, it's one

taste sensation after another.

We take in tiny eateries in

medieval towns, cook Maltese

pizza, learn how to make

goats' cheese and sample

more than our fair share of the

local vineyard produce.

The latter is so good, we ask

our guide if it results in English

people getting more tipsy than

they should. 'It does,' he replies.

'But it's no problem - the Maltese get tipsy too.'

The foodie highlights are plentiful but a visit to the Ta' Mena Estate, a

lush agro-visitor holding on Malta's second island, Gozo, is a must.

There, in an open-air kitchen and dining area looking across a

working farm, chef George Borg serves up everything from fresh fruit

and vegetables to pork, squid and octopus while we relax, taking in

the hustle and bustle of this sun-kissed plot of green.

Earlier that same day we'd been to Ta' Rikardu, a rustic little

restaurant in Victoria, to see cheese being made. The owner - who has

travel

Opposite: The Three Cities and the Grand Harbour. Clockwise from

top left: seasonal delights at Ta'Mena Estate; exclusive addresses at

Portomaso marina; St Julian's Bay; indigenous cuisine at Rogantino's

MALTA MAY BE ONE

OF THE WORLD'S

SMALLEST COUNTRIES

BUT WHEN IT COMES TO

FOOD, IT'S A BIG HITTER