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08.00 Many tourists arrive in
from huge cruise ships anchored nearby.
Beat them to it by rising early and making
straight for the town's biggest attraction: its
battlements. Familiar to many as a filming
location for cult series Game of Thrones,
the easy circular walk meanders through
medieval ramparts and towers.
Admission, £10; open 8am-7pm
09.00 Take a stroll down the
Stradun, the shiny limestone
thoroughfare that runs past ornate fountains
and lofty church towers into the heart of
the Old Town. Halfway along, Café-Bistro
Orlando serves croissants and robust
(albeit not cheap) coffee, best slurped
while watching the Stradun coming to life.
Coffee from £4; esculaprestaurants.com
Set on a side street off the
Stradun, War Photo Limited
is a photography gallery exploring conflict
around the world. A current exhibition focuses
Some towns have looks, others have a grand setting - but
Dubrovnik hits the jackpot on both counts: a huddle of
terracotta roofs framed by mighty battlements, perched
between blue Adriatic waves and rolling hills. It's a tourist
hotspot in high summer, but it is possible to avoid the crowds
on the war in Syria; equally sobering is the
permanent display on the Yugoslav Wars of
the 1990s - during which time Dubrovnik
came under bombardment.
Admission, £4; warphotoltd.com
While the Stradun is heaving
with midday crowds, take
a long and lazy lunch in Lapad, a quiet
suburb of pebbly beaches and venerable
hotels north-west of the Old Town. Set in
a cool, cellar-like space, Taverna Otto is an
unpretentious Croatian bistro serving up
gutsy risottos and fish dishes.
Mains from £9; tavernaotto.com
17.00 Croatia's coastline claims
more than 1,000 islands, and
Dubrovnik is lucky to have one: pint-sized
Lokrum, just 10 minutes away by ferry. Home
to a monastery, a family of peacocks, a few
cypress-shaded coves and not an awful lot
else, it's much quieter in late afternoon - just
be careful not to wander onto the nudist
beach. Return, £7; last ferry 6pm
20.00 Wander the tangle of
alleyways up the hill, south of
the Stradun. Hidden among them is Azur - a
little restaurant venturing successfully into the
unchartered waters of Balkan-Asian fusion
cooking: try local swordfish in a fragrant
katsu curry. Mains from £9; azurvision.com
23.00 Bed down at Hotel Lapad,
occupying a handsome
century-old building shaded by tall palms.
Spacious rooms feature views of the harbour.
Doubles from £140; hotel-lapad.hr
HOW TO GET THERE
British Airways and easyJet fly
to Dubrovnik from London Gatwick
(from £32.49 one way; easyjet.com).
WHEN TO GO
Dubrovnik Summer Festival
runs from 10 July-25 August. Tickets
cost from £15. dubrovnik-festival.hr.
WHAT TO BUY
Independent shops are rather
thin on the ground in Dubrovnik - an
honourable exception to the general rule
is Dubrovačka Kuća, which stocks local
wines and olive oils.
FIND OUT MORE
From far left: Taverna Otto, the
city's terracotta roofs, Balkan-Asian
fusion at Azur, War Photo Limited
WORDS OLIVER JONES