Page 0044

42 � squaremeal.co.uk

DICKIE FITZ

48 Newman Street,

W1T 1QQ

020 3544 0806 £££

� is handsome all-dayer

- formerly Newman

Street Tavern - delivers a

fascinating menu inspired by

the � avours of the Paci� c.

Australian Matt Robinson's

eclectic repertoire includes

delectable gyoza stu  ed

with cauli� ower, pine nuts and raisins, and steamed barramundi

paired with smoky charred white cabbage. Other dishes aren't

always as successful, but Aussie-focused wines, beers and

cocktails, a buzzy atmosphere and charming sta  bode well.

SHUANG

SHUANG

64 Shaftesbury Avenue,

W1D 6LU, 020 7734 5416 ££

Chinese-style hotpot has

been fast-tracked (via

conveyor belt) to hipness

at this modern Chinatown

addition. Fill your individual

pot with ingredients from

plates priced by colour. Mala

broth arrives � zzing with

Szechuan peppercorns, a great match for plump prawns, while

vegetarians have ample choice (try the stu  ed tofu parcels).

Prices mount up, but whether on the frenetic ground � oor or

tranquil � rst � oor, it's a good intro to Chinese hot-pottery.

MR BAO

293 Rye Lane, SE15 4UA

020 7635 0325 ££

Small plates Taiwanese-style

are the speciality at Mr Bao,

purveyor of � u  y steamed

buns. A beautiful blue-andwhite

tiled counter separates

the dining room from the

open kitchen, where divine

'bao diddley' (with pulled

chicken, wasabi mayo and

kimchi) are made. Also try the Taiwanese sausage, and the sticky

dessert bao - fried, drenched in chocolate, and topped with a

toasted marshmallow. An inventive brunch menu, saké-based

cocktails, and wonderfully warm service increase the appeal.

OLIVER MAKI

33 Dean Street, W1D 4PW

020 3544 0745 ££££

� is enticing prospect is the

� rst branch of the upmarket

Japanese fusion chain to

open outside the Middle

East. Luxury ingredients

(Wagyu beef, chutoro tuna)

and theatrical dishes take

centre stage: 'Sushi Jewels'

arrive in a transparent

smoke-� lled jewellery box (pictured). Also order the succulent

shrimp tempura, and the beautiful green-tea tiramisu. Classy

cocktails are attractive, though the mood in the black-and-grey

restaurant can be a tad solemn. Flashy, but more fun needed.

LE BAB

2nd Floor, Kingly Court,

W1B 5PW

020 7439 9222 ££

From its lively third-� oor

hideaway, Le Bab gives

kebabs a gourmet makeover.

First signs are promising:

sta  smile, meat and

charcoal aromas permeate

the room, and the chef has

worked at Le Gavroche.

Kebabs (around £12) arrive open in home-made � atbread, the

smoky meats adorned with the likes of squash hummus. Try the

barbecue paneer kebab too. � e intense � avours are matched by

full-throttle cocktails and London Beer Factory brews.

THEO'S

SIMPLE ITALIAN

34-44 Barkston Gardens,

SW5 0EW

020 7370 9130 £££

� eo Randall has produced

some of London's most

accomplished Italian

cooking at the Park Lane

InterContinental, so we say

'Fantastico!' to the arrival

of this new wallet-friendly

version at Hotel Indigo. Expect charming sta  , bold � avours

and authentic, regional dishes: rich � sh stew, expertly cooked

pasta, and divine white chocolate tart with chilli. Cosy woodpanelled

dining spaces add to an overall stunning little package.

NEW OPENINGS

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