squaremeal.co.uk | 79
CLASS & CRASS
What's hot and what's not in the world of drinks
It seems Grindr and Gaydar are killing o the local gay bar.
Woo-hoo, then, for alt-drag diva Jonny Woo, whose hilarious
new Haggerston hole-up, The Glory, is a trend-bucking gem.
Step back in time and camp it up to Kylie like it's 1999!
We're not big on big chains. But when you're talking 'tails from
embryonic empires such as London Cocktail Club, 5cc and The
Draft House - whose latest launches are, respectively, on Essex,
City and Shepherd's Bush Roads - we can't help but do a jig.
HIP HOPS, DON'T STOP!
Admirers of artisan ales must hope Oddbins' new beer-only
o e concept will be rolled out across London. For now, head
to the Blackheath prototype for more than 300 hip craft ales.
LUST OF THE SUMMER WINE
We heart wines from southern England! And we're (Nora)
batty about crus from Compo country, too. Give us an 'adult
selection box' from the UK's northernmost vineyard - on the
Yorkshire Wolds. £60, ryedalevineyards.co.uk.
When you're on a date, remember that meat-based, fat-washed
cocktails leave a coating in the mouth. 'Snog?' 'Fat chance!'
FONT OF ALL KNOWLEDGE
It looked ace on your iMac, but in the gloom of your speakeasy,
the menu's fancy, ddly, feint font in 7 pt is uttz unreadable -
even if you have been to Specsavers. BYO magnifying glass!
Oi! When we're shelling out a tenner, we expect a live
show, a loin-stirring liquid lap-dance that leaves us
drooling for your Daiquiris.
Our advice to anorak mixologists whose unsolicited tutorials
on the properties of any given spirit (gin, invariably) last longer
than it takes to read War and Peace? Pour, don't bore!
Milroy's of Soho, 3 Greek Street, W1D 4NX; 020 7734 2277
Stripped back to its Georgian bricks, whisky merchant and Soho
institution Milroy's has been refurbished under new ownership. Pull
up at the copper-topped bar to test-drive numerous whiskies from
around the globe, then push through a door disguised as a dusty
bookcase to enter The Vault. Despite styling itself as a 'speakeasy',
this raw-around-the-edges, cough-linctus-brown cellar is the
antithesis of a twee themed cocktail bar. Typical killer slugs from
£9.50 include Smoking Gun (corn whiskey, oloroso sherry, brown
sugar and Earl Grey tincture in a smoked glass) and The Milroy, a
Manhattan with Millstone Dutch whisky. Craft ales, sharing boards
and the Barrel Room, an intimate berth for parties of up to 12, bolster
The Vault's appeal.
Ladies & Gentlemen
2 Highgate Road, NW5 1NR; no telephone
William Borrell is the latest entrepreneur to recognise the moneyspinning
potential of a decommissioned pissoir (see Cellar Door in
WC2, The Convenience in E9, WC in Clapham, et al). Nimbys poohpoohed
this local lad's plans, but Camden council saw sense and
green-lighted the Vestal Vodka MD's conversion of Kentish Town's
Edwardian khazi. Respectable gents - and loos women - might fancy
gin drink Rhubarb Custard presented in an old Bird's custard tin, Hot
Apple and Pumpkin Toddy served in grandma's best china, or perhaps
a Bulleit bourbon, butterscotch and Werther's Original-¢ avoured
Gentlemen's Old Fashioned. Dippy decor (mad Edwardian professor
meets Professor Green), dishy sta and decent drinks suggest Borrell's
far from bog-standard bogs will be more than a ¢ ash in the pan.
7 Old Compton Street, W1D 5JE; 07860 945018
Elegant station bu ets of yore inspire the latest bar from Tony
Conigliaro of 69 Colebrooke Row fame. No, not the sort of shabby
post-war British tearooms featured in David Lean's Brief Encounter,
but rather their 1950s' cosmopolitan contemporaries, still found
today in Italy's palatial railway termini. So channel Audrey Hepburn in
Roman Holiday or Jude Law's Negroni-sipping Dickie Greenleaf in The
Talented Mr Ripley, slide into a high-backed leather banquette and
enjoy pink peppercorn or rose petal Negronis, Bellinis with a twist,
Masala Martini and other rst-class libations mixed by matinée idols
in cream tuxedos moonlighting as bartenders. Or drop in for robust
ristretto and espresso macchiato, pastries and £1-a-pop panini.
THE VAULT PHOTO BY BEN OTTEWELL; ORIGINAL SIN AND BAR TERMINI PHOTOS BY ADDIE CHINN