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bars Ž drink

squaremeal.co.uk | 79

CLASS & CRASS

What's hot and what's not in the world of drinks

CLASS

CAMP SITE

It seems Grindr and Gaydar are killing o— the local gay bar.

Woo-hoo, then, for alt-drag diva Jonny Woo, whose hilarious

new Haggerston hole-up, The Glory, is a trend-bucking gem.

Step back in time and camp it up to Kylie like it's 1999!

CHAIN REACTION

We're not big on big chains. But when you're talking 'tails from

embryonic empires such as London Cocktail Club, 5cc and The

Draft House - whose latest launches are, respectively, on Essex,

City and Shepherd's Bush Roads - we can't help but do a jig.

HIP HOPS, DON'T STOP!

Admirers of artisan ales must hope Oddbins' new beer-only

o’ e concept will be rolled out across London. For now, head

to the Blackheath prototype for more than 300 hip craft ales.

LUST OF THE SUMMER WINE

We heart wines from southern England! And we're (Nora)

batty about crus from Compo country, too. Give us an 'adult

selection box' from the UK's northernmost vineyard - on the

Yorkshire Wolds. £60, ryedalevineyards.co.uk.

CRASS

LARDY LIPS

When you're on a date, remember that meat-based, fat-washed

cocktails leave a coating in the mouth. 'Snog?' 'Fat chance!'

FONT OF ALL KNOWLEDGE

It looked ace on your iMac, but in the gloom of your speakeasy,

the menu's fancy, – ddly, feint font in 7 pt is uttz unreadable -

even if you have been to Specsavers. BYO magnifying glass!

IMPERSONAL SERVICE

Oi! When we're shelling out a tenner, we expect a live

show, a loin-stirring liquid lap-dance that leaves us

drooling for your Daiquiris.

SPIRIT GUIDES

Our advice to anorak mixologists whose unsolicited tutorials

on the properties of any given spirit (gin, invariably) last longer

than it takes to read War and Peace? Pour, don't bore!

The Vault

Milroy's of Soho, 3 Greek Street, W1D 4NX; 020 7734 2277

Stripped back to its Georgian bricks, whisky merchant and Soho

institution Milroy's has been refurbished under new ownership. Pull

up at the copper-topped bar to test-drive numerous whiskies from

around the globe, then push through a door disguised as a dusty

bookcase to enter The Vault. Despite styling itself as a 'speakeasy',

this raw-around-the-edges, cough-linctus-brown cellar is the

antithesis of a twee themed cocktail bar. Typical killer slugs from

£9.50 include Smoking Gun (corn whiskey, oloroso sherry, brown

sugar and Earl Grey tincture in a smoked glass) and The Milroy, a

Manhattan with Millstone Dutch whisky. Craft ales, sharing boards

and the Barrel Room, an intimate berth for parties of up to 12, bolster

The Vault's appeal.

Ladies & Gentlemen

2 Highgate Road, NW5 1NR; no telephone

William Borrell is the latest entrepreneur to recognise the moneyspinning

potential of a decommissioned pissoir (see Cellar Door in

WC2, The Convenience in E9, WC in Clapham, et al). Nimbys poohpoohed

this local lad's plans, but Camden council saw sense and

green-lighted the Vestal Vodka MD's conversion of Kentish Town's

Edwardian khazi. Respectable gents - and loos women - might fancy

gin drink Rhubarb Ž Custard presented in an old Bird's custard tin, Hot

Apple and Pumpkin Toddy served in grandma's best china, or perhaps

a Bulleit bourbon, butterscotch and Werther's Original-¢ avoured

Gentlemen's Old Fashioned. Dippy decor (mad Edwardian professor

meets Professor Green), dishy sta— and decent drinks suggest Borrell's

far from bog-standard bogs will be more than a ¢ ash in the pan.

Bar Termini

7 Old Compton Street, W1D 5JE; 07860 945018

Elegant station bu— ets of yore inspire the latest bar from Tony

Conigliaro of 69 Colebrooke Row fame. No, not the sort of shabby

post-war British tearooms featured in David Lean's Brief Encounter,

but rather their 1950s' cosmopolitan contemporaries, still found

today in Italy's palatial railway termini. So channel Audrey Hepburn in

Roman Holiday or Jude Law's Negroni-sipping Dickie Greenleaf in The

Talented Mr Ripley, slide into a high-backed leather banquette and

enjoy pink peppercorn or rose petal Negronis, Bellinis with a twist,

Masala Martini and other – rst-class libations mixed by matinée idols

in cream tuxedos moonlighting as bartenders. Or drop in for robust

ristretto and espresso macchiato, pastries and £1-a-pop panini.

THE VAULT PHOTO BY BEN OTTEWELL; ORIGINAL SIN AND BAR TERMINI PHOTOS BY ADDIE CHINN

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