60 | squaremeal.co.uk
restaurants � food
knocking down barriers - so for example with
Szechuan food it's introducing dishes people
can understand… After all, some Chinese
food can be challenging,' says Wright.
Newer examples of an accessible fusion
of Chinese avours are due when Yau opens
Park Chinois in Mayfair and at his recently
launched Chinese gastropub Duck Rice
in Soho. Over in Shoreditch, brothers Simon
and Stephen Chan have just opened Bull in a
China Shop. Chef Simon will serve traditional
dishes such as breakfast congee and also
whisky-glazed rotisserie chicken stu�ed
inside Japanese-style black brioche buns. The
dough will be made with either bamboo- or
coconut-activated charcoal, which is fast
gaining approval here for its powers to aid
digestion - and the odd hangover.
In Dalston, there is more cross-pollination
as chef and DJ Carl Clarke launches Chick n
Sours, primarily a fried chicken café with a
lively side menu of kimchi fried rice, sprouting
broccoli with seaweed mayonnaise, and his
take on Thai breakfast eggs made with chilli
jam caramel and toppings galore.
Clarke enjoys matching British produce
with Asian ingredients, saying: 'I love the
freshness of these avours - simple yet
complex. I started out fermenting my own
gochujang [a pungent fermented Korean
condiment made from red chilli, glutinous
rice, fermented soybeans and salt] and then
just went deeper into south Asian avours.'
Meanwhile, the new Bone Daddies in
Kensington serves Brussels sprouts drizzled
with pomegranate and a ponzu sauce,
and its Soho sister is known for its
'pimped-up' bowls of Japanese ramen.
At Koji in Chelsea, corn on the cob with
yuzu dipping sauce was a recent menu
special, but you could also try wasabi
ceviche, or head down the road to Kurobuta
founder Scott Hallsworth's new pan-Asian
place, Joe's Oriental Diner.
With such an array of cool new Asian
restaurants to choose from, what are you
waiting for? Join that queue and grab a plate.
For reviews of all the restaurants mentioned,
INGREDIENTSYuzu: a Japanese citrus fruit that's a cross
between a lemon and a mandarin, and
delivers a distinctive tart and sweet hit.
Find it in cocktails, dressings and even the
new Häagen-Dazs ice cream range.
Seaweed: thought this was just the
spindly thing that wraps up your maki
rolls? This great source of iodine can be
eaten wet or dry. Eat it dry as a snack
or chucked over stir fries, torn up and
thrown into miso soup, in smoothies and
salads, or as a salt avouring.
Palm sugar: looks like brown sugar but
is unrened and much richer in avour.
Often used in Vietnam, Cambodia and
Thailand to make sweets or in curries.
Good stu� is hard to come by here - there
is even a special version imported at Som
Saa just for the ice cream.
Charcoal: said to be the latest London
superfood for its ability to bind to toxins
in the body and then remove them.
Expect to nd activated charcoal in a cold
pressed juice or a bao bun near you soon.
Clockwise from main image: elegantly presented bento dish from Engawa; a Korean twist on the burger
from Busan BBQ; lamb chop at Woodstock, which brings a taste of Japanese izakaya to Oxford Street