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travel

10.00

The place to measure the

pulse of Marseilles has

always been its Old Port, guarded by mighty

fortifications and still frequented by little

fishing boats at first light each morning. Arrive

early to see the fishermen selling their catch

beneath Norman Foster's Ombrière, a new

events pavilion with a curious mirrored roof

that acts as a sunshade.

11.00

Provence's answer to the

Norwegian fjords are the

calanques - narrow inlets hemmed in by

steep limestone cliffs, lining the coast east

of Marseilles. Some of the most impressive

can be visited on a two-hour return boat

trip from the Old Port. Croisières Marseille

Calanques offers daily sailings. Tickets from

£17; croisieres-marseille-calanques.com

14.00

Marseilles' most famous dish

is bouillabaisse, a herby and

hearty seafood stew containing a veritable

hours in…

This May sees the fi rst direct trains departing London for

the Mediterranean, with Eurostar launching its service to

Marseilles. As if on cue, France's second city has unveiled

the results of a huge facelift, including a regenerated port

area and a crop of new museums. Prepare yourself for a

day of culture and cuisine, southern style…

aquarium's worth of species. Though there is

no shortage of pretenders, Chez Fonfon does

one of the best interpretations, served at seafacing

tables a short walk south of the Old

Port. Bouillabaisse from £37; chez-fonfon.com

16.00 The name is a mouthful,

but the new Musée des

Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée

is the highlight of Marseilles' recent waterfront

regeneration. Exhibits span Mediterranean

history, with the museum split between

a 13th-century castle and a new futuristic

structure, the two connected by a hair-raising

walkway. Admission £6; mucem.org

20.00

Hidden away on an

inauspicious, graffiticovered

side street, Le Cabanon du Cours

is a bustling little restaurant flying the flag

for gutsy Marseillaise cooking. Bouillabaisse

is eschewed in favour of beef stews, slowcooked

lamb, local sausages and 'panisses':

chickpea fries served with tomato preserve.

Mains from £10; lecabanonducours.fr

22.00

Set around an imposing

18th-century hospital, the

humbly named Hotel Dieu ('Hotel God')

opened just over a year ago to much acclaim.

The sleek rooms are decked out in muted

colours, and either face down to the harbour

or up to Le Panier, a neighbourhood of

rambling alleyways known as Marseilles'

Montmartre. Rooms from £165; ihg.com

GETTING THERE

easyJet flies direct to Marseille

Provence from London Gatwick, while

British Airways connects from London

Heathrow. From £159; ba.com. Eurostar

direct services begin in May. From £110

return; eurostar.com

WHEN TO GO

Marseilles stages an especially

raucous Bastille Day celebration on

14 July, with fireworks lighting up the

harbour of the Old Port.

FIND OUT MORE

For full information about

all forthcoming events in the city,

visit marseille-tourisme.com

From far left: Marseilles' Old Port; the

Calanques; a bowl of bouillabaisse;

a room with a view at Hotel Dieu

Marseilles

WORDS OLIVER JONES