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travel
10.00
The place to measure the
pulse of Marseilles has
always been its Old Port, guarded by mighty
fortifications and still frequented by little
fishing boats at first light each morning. Arrive
early to see the fishermen selling their catch
beneath Norman Foster's Ombrière, a new
events pavilion with a curious mirrored roof
that acts as a sunshade.
11.00
Provence's answer to the
Norwegian fjords are the
calanques - narrow inlets hemmed in by
steep limestone cliffs, lining the coast east
of Marseilles. Some of the most impressive
can be visited on a two-hour return boat
trip from the Old Port. Croisières Marseille
Calanques offers daily sailings. Tickets from
£17; croisieres-marseille-calanques.com
14.00
Marseilles' most famous dish
is bouillabaisse, a herby and
hearty seafood stew containing a veritable
hours in…
This May sees the fi rst direct trains departing London for
the Mediterranean, with Eurostar launching its service to
Marseilles. As if on cue, France's second city has unveiled
the results of a huge facelift, including a regenerated port
area and a crop of new museums. Prepare yourself for a
day of culture and cuisine, southern style…
aquarium's worth of species. Though there is
no shortage of pretenders, Chez Fonfon does
one of the best interpretations, served at seafacing
tables a short walk south of the Old
Port. Bouillabaisse from £37; chez-fonfon.com
16.00 The name is a mouthful,
but the new Musée des
Civilisations de l'Europe et de la Méditerranée
is the highlight of Marseilles' recent waterfront
regeneration. Exhibits span Mediterranean
history, with the museum split between
a 13th-century castle and a new futuristic
structure, the two connected by a hair-raising
walkway. Admission £6; mucem.org
20.00
Hidden away on an
inauspicious, graffiticovered
side street, Le Cabanon du Cours
is a bustling little restaurant flying the flag
for gutsy Marseillaise cooking. Bouillabaisse
is eschewed in favour of beef stews, slowcooked
lamb, local sausages and 'panisses':
chickpea fries served with tomato preserve.
Mains from £10; lecabanonducours.fr
22.00
Set around an imposing
18th-century hospital, the
humbly named Hotel Dieu ('Hotel God')
opened just over a year ago to much acclaim.
The sleek rooms are decked out in muted
colours, and either face down to the harbour
or up to Le Panier, a neighbourhood of
rambling alleyways known as Marseilles'
Montmartre. Rooms from £165; ihg.com
GETTING THERE
easyJet flies direct to Marseille
Provence from London Gatwick, while
British Airways connects from London
Heathrow. From £159; ba.com. Eurostar
direct services begin in May. From £110
return; eurostar.com
WHEN TO GO
Marseilles stages an especially
raucous Bastille Day celebration on
14 July, with fireworks lighting up the
harbour of the Old Port.
FIND OUT MORE
For full information about
all forthcoming events in the city,
visit marseille-tourisme.com
From far left: Marseilles' Old Port; the
Calanques; a bowl of bouillabaisse;
a room with a view at Hotel Dieu
Marseilles
WORDS OLIVER JONES