102 | squaremeal.co.uk
Former Scott's maître d' Ed Wyand opened Verden in East London last year.
It has fast gained a reputation as a pioneering wine and food bar WORDS LUCY BRITNER
THE RESTAURANT INSIDER
Verden has a reputation for
-piste wines. What's the
most interesting one on the list?
One of the most interesting is
Vignamare 2013 from Barraco
in Sicily. I don't think I've ever
experienced a better example of
terroir. The name Vignamare means
sea wine and, for me, it smells
like puddles on the beach. It's not
everyone's cup of tea, but the idea is
that we can give people the chance
to try wines like this. We paired it
with a cod and cockles dish recently,
and it was magni cent.
If you could only drink wine from
one region for the rest of your
life, where would it be?
Jura in eastern France. People say
that the wines from Jura are weird
but that's what I love about them.
There is a huge amount of diversity
and you would never get bored
with them. One of my all-time
favourite Jura wines on our list is
Domaine Macle 2010 Chardonnay
and Savagnin - Savagnin mostly
only appears in Jura.
What's your death-row meal and
what will you drink with it?
I'm so greedy that I'm probably
one of those people who would
actually be killed by their death-row
meal. I'd have a tasting menu from
Aureole in New York, cooked by
one of my oldest friends, Marcus
Gleadow-Ware, who is executive
chef there. I'd tell him to just keep
bringing dishes. To drink, I'd start
with a Hitachino Nest beer and
de nitely have a magnum of
something to really nish me o .
Where do you like to eat?
The Clove Club and Lyle's are two
of the best restaurants in London
at the moment. Lyle's is great value
for money, and both of them are
in intriguing buildings with really
Have you got any pet hates
in the restaurant world?
Food served on slates. They make
a horrible noise and are impossible
to pick up and put down, from a
service point of view.
Favourite recipe book?
I love the Momofuku cookbook - it
looks really good, but it's impossible
to cook anything in it!
How do you keep in shape?
I walk as much as I can and I run
once a week. I have to watch what
I eat, but I'm greedy and I want to
try everything on the menu.
Clockwise from top:
slates get slated; dive into
Sicilian Vignamare 2013;
keeping t; a dish at Lyle's;
the Momofuku cookbook