bars ¥ drink
78 | squaremeal.co.uk
GLENMORANGIE TROLLEY AT
THE RIVOLI BAR, RITZ HOTEL
150 Piccadilly, W1J 9BR
Who's in charge? Bar manager Francisco
Santos, ex-Mandeville Hotel and Skylon. This
is the Ritz, so expect impeccable courtesy,
style and a restrained sense of theatre.
What's the deal? Vintage cocktails.
Painstakingly constructed with the help of
Glenmorangie, the trolley (we need a better
word here) cost close to £30,000. Examine
the marble, brass and wood inlaid with gold
leaf and you'll understand why. Equipped
with a bath for ice-ball carving and tools
held in place by unseen magnets, it took
a year to make and then had to be sent
back for improvements. Twice.
What should I order? Santos is a magpie for
vintage spirits including an old export bottle
of Plymouth Gin labelled as Plym Gin, and
1950s Campari. So maybe an El Presidente
combining Bacardi 150th Anniversary Rum
with 1950s Martini red vermouth and 1960s
Grand Marnier? Or a Rob Roy with Hibiki
Tequila and/or St-Germain elder ower
liqueur. The trick is to 'roll' a bloody Mary -
don't shake, don't stir, but pour repeatedly
between two halves of a Boston shaker.
They'll show you. You'll make a mess.
Cost: £8.50, only available Saturday and
Sunday brunch (10am to 5pm).
*At time of writing the wheels have literally
come o� - you'll currently nd a bloody
Mary station on the upstairs bar instead.
MARTINI TROLLEY AT
THE CONNAUGHT BAR,
Carlos Place, W1K 2AL
Who's in charge? Ago Perrone, director of
mixology at the Connaught. Immaculately
turned out and e ortlessly stylish in tableside
manner, with an innovative streak
forged by a multi-award-winning bartending
career. Flair and creativity, underscored by
an air of luxury that is pure Mayfair.
30 Years Old, plus 1960s Carpano Antica
Formula and Angostura Bitters?
Cost: Anything from £90 to £350.
BLOODY MARY TROLLEY AT
THE JONES FAMILY PROJECT*
78 Great Eastern Street, EC2A 3JL
Who's in charge? Andrea Travenzoli, one of
his bartending colleagues - or you. Yes, you.
Customers are encouraged to formulate
their own DIY bloody Mary.
What's the deal? A liquid Can't Cook, Won't
Cook, with better ingredients. Once you've
sorted spirit and tomato juice, choose from
a smorgasbord of herbs and spices - dill,
cardamom, coriander, rosemary and many
more - as well as a endish homemade
concoction called spicy mix.
What should I order? Er, a bloody Mary,
obvs. Stay traditional with Grey Goose
vodka, give it a twist with Babi¬ka
wormwood vodka, or go o -piste with Gin
Mare (fabulous with rosemary), Centenario
Clockwise from top left: let Alessandro Palazzi come to you; the Ritz's £30,000 masterpiece;
at least the seats are comfy at unlicensed, bar-free BYOC; aromatherapy at the Connaught
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