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42 | squaremeal.co.uk

new openings

8 Hoxton Square

8 Hoxton Square, N1 6NU

020 7729 4232 Price £35

The chaps behind modish Soho eatery

10 Greek Street have transplanted

their successful seasonal dining

concept to hip and happening Hoxton

Square, where it  ts in perfectly.

The small, bright ground- oor

combines brick walls half-painted

white, industrial lighting and mustard

pots on the tables for cutlery, plus

a small alfresco patio. Downstairs,

there's a chef's table and bar seating

along the length of an open kitchen in

a slightly gloomy basement space.

The daily blackboards from 10 Greek Street

are featured here as well, with a roster of inviting

dishes delivering fresh, perfectly balanced

 avours - from briny tuna carpaccio scattered

with sea purslane, preserved lemon and dabs of

squid-ink aïoli to satisfying prawn and scallop

ravioli in a moreish, creamy lemon butter with

shavings of fresh fennel on top.

To follow, a meaty chunk of pancetta-wrapped

monk sh gets unusual bursts of  avour from

cauli ower, celery and pickled grapes, while

spatchcocked poussin with white beans, bacon

and spinach comes in a rich cassoulet-like sauce

that gives the bird's skin a melt-in-the-mouth

quality. A strong dessert list rounds things o„ ,

with citrusy lemon meringue pie on wafer-thin,

crisp pastry providing a memorable end to a

pitch-perfect meal.

WINE LIST

Co-owner Luke Wilson's list encourages you

to try lots of wines, with 28 exceedingly

a� ordable options available by the glass.

From Hungarian Furmint and Chilean

Carmenere to late-harvest German Riesling,

there's plenty to try at a� ordable prices.

Best buy Domaine Chevalier, Ladoix Bois

de Mont 2011, Burgundy, France, £34

THE LAST WORD Fresh, seasonal Shoreditch dining

with a brilliant, well-priced wine list

3 more…COOL & CASUAL

The 10 Cases

020 7768 1688

Foxlow

020 3544 0776

Hixter

020 3544 0670

Holborn Dining Room

Rosewood London, 252 High Holborn, WC1V 7EN

020 7781 8888 Price £55

Now owned by the Rosewood group, Chancery Court Hotel has

become the glamorous Rosewood London and boasts this smart

British brasserie in place of Jun Tanaka's Pearl. Des McDonald, ex-CEO

of Caprice Holdings, has checked o„ a roster of restaurant trends -

from classic English comfort food to Martin Brudnizki design. The

results may feel derivative, but HDR feeds the capital's appetite for

buzzy brasseries, and the set-up has a welcoming air of familiarity.

There's nothing o„ -putting about the all-day menu either, which

kicks o„ with traditional breakfast fare and moves on to sandwiches,

salads and charcuterie, high tea with smoked anchovies on toast and

a clutch of patriotic dishes. ('Hock and coq' pudding, anyone?)

We started with juicy roast langoustines doused in garlic butter,

followed by the signature HDR burger and grilled calf's liver topped

with crispy sage, both well-cooked if lacking wow factor. For dessert, St

Clement's posset had the right balance of zest and creamy richness, but

Bakewell tart was a disappointment - made with  lo rather than the

traditional shortcrust pastry and clumsily presented.

Service did provide the required polish however and there was a real

buzz in the dining room, which is comfortably decked out with brass

 xtures, reclaimed oak, antique mirrors, leather upholstery and jaunty

tweed detailing. An adjoining deli deals in hand-picked provisions.

THE LAST WORD Jumping on the buzzy brasserie bandwagon, but still worth a visit

Feeling blue?

Cate Blanchett

at Holborn

Dining Room

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