Page 0009 | 7


utumn is always a bumper time for restaurant

launches and the 35 most notable newcomers

reviewed in our new openings pages (pp.46-66)

show that the scene is in the rudest of health.

In fact, a recent study showed that Brits spend

a whopping 25% of their income on eating out.

Throw in lengthy waiting lists for tables the moment

booking lines go live at the likes of Sexy Fish, and it's easy

to see why operators from abroad must think that a site in

London is a licence to print money. In this issue alone, we have

reviews of Smith † Wollensky and Hotel Chantelle (p.62), both

from the USA; Estiatorio Milos (p.60), which arrives by way

of the US, Greece and Canada; and Casa Cruz, from a Buenos Aires-based restaurateur (p.56).

But gone are the days when we would unquestioningly accept these imports with gratitude;

we Londoners are now the most sophisticated diners in the world. The summertime ” op of

Le Chabanais proved that to prosper here, operators from overseas need to o• er something

that we can't produce ourselves. Indeed, as Calabria native Francesco Mazzei points out in our

interview ahead of the relaunch of Sartoria (p.68), the best Italian food in London now is being

cooked by British chefs such as Jacob Kenedy at Vico (p.58), while Kent-born Allan Pickett is a

dab hand at turning out comme il faut French food at Piquet (p.60).

And speaking of French food, even Parisian chefs now admit that London is the restaurant

capital of Europe (p.76). Whether it's the brothers behind Les 110 de Taillevent, opening as we go

to press, or the husband-and-wife team behind Frenchie, due in January, if you want to eat the

best French food London is the place to do it. Bon appétit.


Amy Grier is a freelance

food and lifestyle

journalist whose work

has appeared in Time

Out, Women's Health,

Stylist, Sunday Times Travel and Waitrose

Kitchen. She can be found tweeting

@amygrier, and in her spare time

endeavours to � nd new ways to make

the nickname 'A.A. Grier' stick.

Favourite winter market? Maltby Street.

Ultimate Christmassy spot in London? By the

giant Christmas tree next to the ice rink at

Somerset House, cheeks red from skating.

Best way to bulk up for colder months?

Cheese, and lots of it.


Will writes about beer,

food and travel for

publications including

the Financial Times,

Daily Telegraph and

Washington Post. He contributes a monthly

beer column to the Independent Magazine,

and is editor of beer app Craft Beer London

and creator of beer week London Beer City.

Favourite winter market? Brockley Market

is my favourite in all seasons.

Ultimate Christmassy spot in London? The

Royal Oak in Borough: cosy, old-fashioned

and great beers.

Best way to bulk up? Eat lots of cassoulet.


Julie Sheppard is a

food, drink and travel

writer for publications

including the Sunday

Times, Time Out and

Waitrose Food Illustrated. As contributing

editor to Square Meal she scours the wine

world for brilliant bottles and also likes

a decent cup of tea (with cake, if you insist).

Favourite winter market? Birmingham (my

home town) hosts the biggest German

Christmas market in the country.

Ultimate Christmassy spot in London? Carols

at St Martins in the Field, then a stroll up

Regent Street at night under the twinkly

Christmas lights.

Best way to bulk up? Stew! Preferably beef,

and with big fat dumplings.

PUBLISHERS Mark de Wesselow, Simon White EDITORIAL Tel: 020 7840 6295

Editor Ben McCormack Assistant Editor Laura Foster Contributing Editor Julie Sheppard

News � Online Editor India Dowley Deputy News � Online Editor Neil Simpson

Editorial Assistant Rosie Morris Sub Editors Jill Cropper, Phil Harriss, Justin Hood, David Mabey, Amy Swales

DISPLAY ADVERTISING Tel: 020 7840 6273 Advertisement Director Charles Meynell Lifestyle Manager Kate Stephens

Account Director, Drinks Adam Wyartt Account Managers Gianni Buttice, Nissa Naik

DESIGN † PRODUCTION Tel: 020 7840 6294 Creative Director Robin Freeman Art Director Meg Georgeson

Art Editor Lauren Ozzati Printing Wyndeham Roche MARKETING Tel: 020 7840 6269 Head of Marketing Rachel Harty

Events Manager Chloé Kingham Events Planner Ed Warr Marketing Manager Paul Young Senior Marketing Executive

Mieke Kyra Smith CIRCULATION Tel: 0870 141 6101 COVER PHOTOGRAPHY: Warwick Saint / August

A member of the Audit Bureau of Circulations. We believe our facts are correct at the time of going to press, although inevitably information changes,

which means care must be exercised. Reviews are subjective. Neither Monomax Ltd nor its agents or employees can accept liability for omissions or

inaccuracies. No material can be reproduced without written permission of the Publisher. © Monomax Ltd October 2015. ISSN 977-1369264-01-3-46

For reviews of 11,500 bars and restaurants nationwide,

plus venues for all your events:


Published House, 250 Kennington Lane,

London, SE11 5RD Tel: +44 (0)20 7582 0222 Helpline: +44 (0)20 7840 6299

Fax: +44 (0)20 7582 5444 Email:


Welcome to Square Meal

Ben McCormack, editor

68 | | 69

restaurants � food


rancesco Mazzei's name is known to

thousands of people who will never

eat in his restaurants but have tasted

his food nonetheless. Not because

they've made a recipe from one of his

cookbooks (his rst, Mezzogiorno, isn't

out until next month) or dined at L'Anima,

the bluechip City Italian where he was chef

patron until earlier this year. Nor is it because

they're looking forward to his arrival at

Sartoria, the Savile Row restaurant owned

by D�D London that Mazzei is set to revive

when it reopens in November.

No, they know Mazzei's name because

it's there on the menu at Pizza Express, right

above the Calabrese pizza that he created

for the omnipresent chain six years ago,

introducing the British high street to what has

now become the most famous ingredient

of his native Calabria: the spicy, spreadable

sausage called 'nduja.

After seven years cooking southern Italian food in the City,

chef Francesco Mazzei's aim is to bring the best food from

all over his native Italy to his new home on Savile Row


"In Calabria they call me 'King 'Nduja',"

Mazzei laughs. "They treat me like a superstar:

every time I go home I'm on Rai TV. That pizza

has gone all around the world and the guys

who make the 'nduja do very well from it, it

gives jobs to 30 or 40 families. It's the best

compliment, not necessarily for a chef, but

for a person, when you do something good

and you really get something back which is

not money, it's not material - it's love and

respect. I think there is nothing better in life."

This pride in the best Italian ingredients

will continue at Sartoria. "The thing we keep

forgetting is how great, how simple, but at

the same time how sophisticated Italian

cuisine is. Italians don't complicate their lives

by putting things on the plate to look pretty.

We concentrate more on the ingredients.

We get crazy about ingredients, travelling

miles and miles to nd the right tomato or

the right extra virgin olive oil."

While Mazzei made his name introducing

the ingredients of southern Italy to British

palates, the menu at Sartoria will o—er food

from all over the country. "We'll do a nice

risotto, we'll do the best tortelli, we'll do the

best Milanese. I want people to come back

for that Milanese. They're going to trust

Sartoria and me for the quality of ingredients

rather than the presentation. We'll do the

best food that Italy can o—er."

Italian influence

Part of that o—ering will be breakfast. "When

you think about Italian breakfasts, you think

there's not much around, which is not true.

If you go to southern Italy, you've got all this

Spanish and Moorish in˜uence: it's a bit like

a Turkish breakfast. I'm doing a dish of 'nduja

and three di—erent eggs, which is called

'eggs purgatorio'. It's quite spicy. It's a dish my

grandmother used to have after she'd been

working in the garden for a few hours and

she needed some proper food."

There'll also be 'The Italian Job', basically a

take on a full English with Italian ingredients,

as well as pastries and cold meats. And

of course, no Italian breakfast is complete





Mazzei's beef tartare


la Révolution

restaurants � food | 77

76 |


ocktail hour in Café Royal,

Piccadilly. Sitting opposite me

are two of the three Gardinier

brothers, Laurent and Thierry,

the French Corbin and King fresh

o  the Eurostar to oversee the

opening of Les 110 de Taillevent in the capital;

their …rst foray onto British soil.

It's fair to say they've got form. The

Gardinier family have owned two Michelinstarred

Le Taillevent, one of the most iconic

restaurants in Paris, since 2011, opening a

brasserie across the road the following year -

the …rst Les 110 de Taillevent, named for the

remarkable number of wines available to buy

by the glass, as well as the bottle.

The celebrated London opening on 21

October signals more than just a hefty boost

to the West End's wine economy, sited as it is

on Cavendish Square, close to Oxford Circus.

The arrival of two Gardiniers (middle brother

Stéphane looks after other family ventures)

marks a sea change in the global food scene,

with London further cementing its position

as the gastronomic capital of Europe.

"When you are looking for a big foodie city

in Europe the obvious answer is London,"

says youngest Gardinier sibling Laurent,

explaining why they chose our city, despite

the age-old culinary rivalry. "Let's stop this

stupid war and competition between London

and Paris. There are great chefs and great

restaurants on both sides. We [the French]

don't have anything to teach the English.

There is room for us here in London." A bistro

serving 110 of the best wines in the world by

the glass? Damn right there's room.

The brothers go on to tell me that 110

will have its own cellar, just as their French

venues do, but this one will also carry a host

of British wines, as well as unique bottles

from other world regions not found in their

establishments in Paris.

"It's about taking inspiration from the

country you …nd yourself in. We will do the

same with the food - modern interpretations

of classic French dishes, with British seasonal

produce," explains Thierry. "In London, we

will also be open for breakfast, pairing the

dishes on the menu with a selection of hot

and cold beverages. Paris doesn't really have

a breakfast scene, but here it's huge, so it's a

good opportunity to try something di erent."


There are a few reasons why so many French

restaurateurs, bar owners and chefs are

nding such success this side of the channel:

one being emerging di erences between

diners and the establishments they frequent.

There's a food revolution afoot: as leading French restaurateurs come and set

up shop on this side of the channel, Square Meal investigates how London has

managed to take the crown as the gastronomic capital of Europe WORDS AMY GRIER




Angus beef �llet with

baby gem lettuce at Céleste


  1. Page 0001
  2. Page 0002
  3. Page 0003
  4. Page 0004
  5. Page 0005
  6. Page 0006
  7. Page 0007
  8. Page 0008
  9. Page 0009
  10. Page 0010
  11. Page 0011
  12. Page 0012
  13. Page 0013
  14. Page 0014
  15. Page 0015
  16. Page 0016
  17. Page 0017
  18. Page 0018
  19. Page 0019
  20. Page 0020
  21. Page 0021
  22. Page 0022
  23. Page 0023
  24. Page 0024
  25. Page 0025
  26. Page 0026
  27. Page 0027
  28. Page 0028
  29. Page 0029
  30. Page 0030
  31. Page 0031
  32. Page 0032
  33. Page 0033
  34. Page 0034
  35. Page 0035
  36. Page 0036
  37. Page 0037
  38. Page 0038
  39. Page 0039
  40. Page 0040
  41. Page 0041
  42. Page 0042
  43. Page 0043
  44. Page 0044
  45. Page 0045
  46. Page 0046
  47. Page 0047
  48. Page 0048
  49. Page 0049
  50. Page 0050
  51. Page 0051
  52. Page 0052
  53. Page 0053
  54. Page 0054
  55. Page 0055
  56. Page 0056
  57. Page 0057
  58. Page 0058
  59. Page 0059
  60. Page 0060
  61. Page 0061
  62. Page 0062
  63. Page 0063
  64. Page 0064
  65. Page 0065
  66. Page 0066
  67. Page 0067
  68. Page 0068
  69. Page 0069
  70. Page 0070
  71. Page 0071
  72. Page 0072
  73. Page 0073
  74. Page 0074
  75. Page 0075
  76. Page 0076
  77. Page 0077
  78. Page 0078
  79. Page 0079
  80. Page 0080
  81. Page 0081
  82. Page 0082
  83. Page 0083
  84. Page 0084
  85. Page 0085
  86. Page 0086
  87. Page 0087
  88. Page 0088
  89. Page 0089
  90. Page 0090
  91. Page 0091
  92. Page 0092
  93. Page 0093
  94. Page 0094
  95. Page 0095
  96. Page 0096
  97. Page 0097
  98. Page 0098
  99. Page 0099
  100. Page 0100
  101. Page 0101
  102. Page 0102
  103. Page 0103
  104. Page 0104
  105. Page 0105
  106. Page 0106
  107. Page 0107
  108. Page 0108
  109. Page 0109
  110. Page 0110
  111. Page 0111
  112. Page 0112
  113. Page 0113
  114. Page 0114
  115. Page 0115
  116. Page 0116
  117. Page 0117
  118. Page 0118
  119. Page 0119
  120. Page 0120
  121. Page 0121
  122. Page 0122
  123. Page 0123
  124. Page 0124
  125. Page 0125
  126. Page 0126
  127. Page 0127
  128. Page 0128
  129. Page 0129
  130. Page 0130
  131. Page 0131
  132. Page 0132
  133. Page 0133
  134. Page 0134
  135. Page 0135
  136. Page 0136
  137. Page 0137
  138. Page 0138
  139. Page 0139
  140. Page 0140
  141. Page 0141
  142. Page 0142
  143. Page 0143
  144. Page 0144
  145. Page 0145
  146. Page 0146
  147. Page 0147
  148. Page 0148
  149. Page 0149
  150. Page 0150
  151. Page 0151
  152. Page 0152
  153. Page 0153
  154. Page 0154
  155. Page 0155
  156. Page 0156
  157. Page 0157
  158. Page 0158
  159. Page 0159
  160. Page 0160
  161. Page 0161
  162. Page 0162
  163. Page 0163
  164. Page 0164
  165. Page 0165
  166. Page 0166
  167. Page 0167
  168. Page 0168
  169. Page 0169
  170. Page 0170
  171. Page 0171
  172. Page 0172
  173. Page 0173
  174. Page 0174
  175. Page 0175
  176. Page 0176
  177. Page 0177
  178. Page 0178
  179. Page 0179
  180. Page 0180
  181. Page 0181
  182. Page 0182
  183. Page 0183
  184. Page 0184
  185. Page 0185
  186. Page 0186
  187. Page 0187
  188. Page 0188
  189. Page 0189
  190. Page 0190
  191. Page 0191
  192. Page 0192
  193. Page 0193
  194. Page 0194
  195. Page 0195
  196. Page 0196

Related Issues