Page 0139

wine

squaremeal.co.uk | 137

become Bastardo in Portuguese?

The jury is out, but in its French (Jura)

form, it has a ‚oral, raspberry/cherry

fragrance and crunch, with a savoury,

often gamey or earthy, undertow. Can

be light and Beaujolais-like - just right

for charcuterie, bresaola, salmon - or

šrmer and more tannic, in which case

try game birds, venison, hard cheeses.

Try this: Tissot Singulier Arbois

Trousseau 2013, Jura, France. £27.50,

Berry Bros “ Rudd

Whites

AUXERROIS

Widely planted in Alsace, but seldom

seen on labels, Auxerrois is suddenly

on everyone's radar after being

discovered in a forgotten sub-region

of Burgundy called Auxois. There, and

at its best in Alsace, it gives mediumbodied,

fresh, ‚oral, dry whites with

a spicy lift to the peach, pear and

citrus fruit. A winner with shellšsh,

squid, chicken or as an aperitif.

Try this: Simonnet-Febvre Esprit de

Lyre Auxerrois 2014, Burgundy, France.

£16.99, Partridges, Gloucester Road

FALANGHINA

Falanghina's stronghold is Campania

where, solo or blended, it produces

dry, medium to medium-full whites

with a leafy or dill-like freshness and

stone-fruit and citrus ‚avours, edged

sometimes with white pepper or

smoke. A match for all sorts of šsh.

Try this: Terredora Falanghina 2014,

Campania, Italy. £11.99, Majestic

GODELLO

Godello was once seen as a poor

relation of its fellow Galician wine

Albariño, but is every bit as good and

sometimes better. It shares peach,

zingy lemon zest and a salty mineral

character with fashionable Albariño,

but often has a little more roundness,

depth and wet stone minerality.

Spot on with seafood and chicken.

Try this: Valdesil Sobre Lías Godello

2013, Valdeorras, Spain. £15.99, Waitrose

JACQUÈRE

Savoie's most important white grape

has come into its own with the swerve

towards lighter whites. E£ortlessly

light, dry and naturally low in alcohol,

it has all the cooling freshness of

an alpine stream. A delicate blossomy

scent, crisp, zesty pear and apple fruit

and maybe a hint of celery salt.

Drink young as an aperitif.

Try this: Philippe et Francois

Tiollier l'Orangerie 2014, Savoie,

France. £10.95, Yapp Brothers

SAUVIGNON GRIS

The stampede for Sauvignon Blanc

was bound to reach its pink-skinned

sibling, but Sauvignon Gris is more

than an also-ran. It's streaked with

classic green, herbal ‚avours, but

is ‚eshier and fruitier and not a million

miles o£ Pouilly-Fumé. Found in Chile,

New Zealand, the Loire and Bordeaux.

Try it with spicy šsh and seafood.

Try this: Brancott Estate Marlborough

Sauvignon Gris 2014, Marlborough,

New Zealand. £10.49, Tesco

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