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become Bastardo in Portuguese?
The jury is out, but in its French (Jura)
form, it has a oral, raspberry/cherry
fragrance and crunch, with a savoury,
often gamey or earthy, undertow. Can
be light and Beaujolais-like - just right
for charcuterie, bresaola, salmon - or
rmer and more tannic, in which case
try game birds, venison, hard cheeses.
Try this: Tissot Singulier Arbois
Trousseau 2013, Jura, France. £27.50,
Berry Bros Rudd
Widely planted in Alsace, but seldom
seen on labels, Auxerrois is suddenly
on everyone's radar after being
discovered in a forgotten sub-region
of Burgundy called Auxois. There, and
at its best in Alsace, it gives mediumbodied,
fresh, oral, dry whites with
a spicy lift to the peach, pear and
citrus fruit. A winner with shellsh,
squid, chicken or as an aperitif.
Try this: Simonnet-Febvre Esprit de
Lyre Auxerrois 2014, Burgundy, France.
£16.99, Partridges, Gloucester Road
Falanghina's stronghold is Campania
where, solo or blended, it produces
dry, medium to medium-full whites
with a leafy or dill-like freshness and
stone-fruit and citrus avours, edged
sometimes with white pepper or
smoke. A match for all sorts of sh.
Try this: Terredora Falanghina 2014,
Campania, Italy. £11.99, Majestic
Godello was once seen as a poor
relation of its fellow Galician wine
Albariño, but is every bit as good and
sometimes better. It shares peach,
zingy lemon zest and a salty mineral
character with fashionable Albariño,
but often has a little more roundness,
depth and wet stone minerality.
Spot on with seafood and chicken.
Try this: Valdesil Sobre Lías Godello
2013, Valdeorras, Spain. £15.99, Waitrose
Savoie's most important white grape
has come into its own with the swerve
towards lighter whites. E£ortlessly
light, dry and naturally low in alcohol,
it has all the cooling freshness of
an alpine stream. A delicate blossomy
scent, crisp, zesty pear and apple fruit
and maybe a hint of celery salt.
Drink young as an aperitif.
Try this: Philippe et Francois
Tiollier l'Orangerie 2014, Savoie,
France. £10.95, Yapp Brothers
The stampede for Sauvignon Blanc
was bound to reach its pink-skinned
sibling, but Sauvignon Gris is more
than an also-ran. It's streaked with
classic green, herbal avours, but
is eshier and fruitier and not a million
miles o£ Pouilly-Fumé. Found in Chile,
New Zealand, the Loire and Bordeaux.
Try it with spicy sh and seafood.
Try this: Brancott Estate Marlborough
Sauvignon Gris 2014, Marlborough,
New Zealand. £10.49, Tesco